Raglan Cardigan

Raglan Seamline

I think the way the full-fashioning comes together on the raglan seamlines of this sweater is so pretty. This is another sweater I knitted a couple years ago and never finished. I guess I assumed I'd be in the mood sometime, but I didn't know it would take quite this long! The yarn is Neveda by Schjeepes. It's a chunky worsted. The pattern photo is below, and is the one shown on the model.

Berroco Cardigan Pattern

I also worked out the changes on a knitted shell pattern from Louet, called Lily. Here's a photo of the pattern.

Here's a link to more information about it. It's about half-way down the page. The pattern is written for Euroflax Sportweight yarn, but I may do it in something else. I want a pink coral that's not just a flat color. Jamieson has some lovely Shetland wools that would be gorgeous, but I don't think I want wool.

Knitted Shell

Schjeepes Vrillée Shell

This is knitted from Berroco booklet #189. I used Vrillée Fine yarn from Schjeepes in Lemon. I actually finished knitting the pieces of this in the summer of 2003, but just put them together and picked up the stitches for the neckline finish today. It's a pattern I've done several times, and I think it's a nice one. I changed the lower edge from a rolled edge to 6 rows of seed stitch, which I think is much prettier, and much more wearable.

For some reason, I'm suddenly in the mood to knit again, and I'm finding projects in various stages that I could pick up and finish. Quite a few of them are too big now, and I don't know what to do about them. Should I just rip them all out and start over, or finish the knitting, and cut and sew to the right size? I need to read through some of the patterns I was using, and the notes I made to see if I can even figure out what I was doing. There's one very complicated Anny Blatt cardigan with 2 yarns alternating in a tweed-type pattern (if I even remember that right) that I have a whole page of very tiny notes and specific calculations that look quite important, but I don't know if they make sense anymore. It seems to be all done except part of one front and the sleeves. The yarns are gorgeous and the colors are wonderful. I hate to rip it all out, but it ought to be finished. Oh well, I'll see if this mood lasts anyway.

Second Pair of Drawstring Pants

This is the second pair of drawstring pants I've made. The third are halfway cut out, and will be done soon I hope. These are a very thin rayon, and will be really nice for hot weather. They're almost like wearing pajamas they're so comfortable. I narrowed both the casing and drawstring, and added the difference to the top of the pants themselves. I like the effect much better, and they're more comfortable to wear. I may put in pockets next time, as I suddenly remembered a great inseam pocket from a Great Copy pants pattern that I think will work very well.

Even Furrier Flip Flops

Emily's Flip Flops.
These are the flip flops I made for the daughter of a friend. I think they're just darling, and much, much furrier. Just right for a young girl.

I used Bernat's Disco, a very long eyelash yarn with a little glitter, and Red Heart's Foxy, a variegated, shorter eyelash yarn.

Drawstring Pants

Drawstring Pants
I began and finished a pair of summer drawstring pants today, using my favorite Double Burda pattern. I tried a piece of stretch poly/cotton that I've had for a while, and cut the pants as usual, didn't sew the darts, and added a sewn on casing with a self-drawstring. The whole thing only took me about 3 to 3½ hours, and they turned out beautifully. I did a triple topstitch hem, and I’m already planning several more pairs in some very light-weight fabrics. You can see a side view here.

I took my fabric card file with me today when I knew I’d have some down-time, and it was great fun to put together combinations of fabric, and think about what patterns would go well with what fabrics. I need to add a list of my favorite patterns and their yardage requirements, as well as a few generalizations.

Fun Fur Flip Flops!

Fun Fur Flip Flops!

These are just silly, but kind of fun. The pattern is available online from Lion Brand Yarns. I actually made mine with Red Heart's "Foxy" as it was the right color for the flip flops I had. I haven't really crocheted in a long time, but I made them last night in about an hour, so a nice quickie project, and what a great gift they would be.

Twist Top

Twist Top with Drawstring Pants.
I finally succumbed to the call of the Twist Top. Not the infamous Burda World-of-Fashion version, but my own version, made from the Jalie 2005. I started with the V-neck pattern, and changed the front to a cowl neck. I constructed it as usual, then put it on and began arranging the twist at the neck. I ended up with a version that I like pretty well. It also has a twist at the hem. The hardest part was stitching the twist invisibly. Much easier to hold it than to pin it, and to pin it than to sew it. It's the first thing I've done since doing a major overhaul of my sewing area. It was looking so pristine that I felt I needed to do something quick to get back with the program.

I am not so sure I'm crazy about this, and as my sister says, "Why do you want a Twist Top anyhow?" She may be right, but it was kind of fun, and certainly wearable, if not my favorite top. I wonder if it might not be better on me in a woven. Maybe I should just quit while I'm ahead though. Not everything is going to look great on everyone, and now and then, I apparently like to prove it!

Organizing!

I remember reading somewhere that the truly disorganized just adore office supply stores, paper, notebooks, etc., so I had fun this week as I purchased 4"x6" cards and a cardfile for them. Yes, I am finally making a file of all my fabric. I was pretty sure that I had more fabric than I thought I really did, and it's actually a little scary just how much I do have. I'll see later if I'm brave enough to add up all the yardage and see what the awful truth is. It's going pretty well though, and it's nice to get things into sort of a good storage distribution too. Things had gotten a little jumbled, and hard to find.

In the cardfile I'm sorting by Knit or Woven, and then by color. I have fabric in very large drawers, and in some large, clear plastic tubs. They're semi-separated by color family and/or fiber. Not as well as they could be, and one big problem is where to put pretty good-sized remnants. I've about decided to devote one drawer to that. I'm sure this system will be evolving for some time, as I see how it works, and of course think of new and better ways to use it. I'm already thinking that it might be nice to separate the actual fabrics into seasonal choices. I do tend to have less spring/summer fabric, so maybe it won't be a problem. It's kind of fun to get to play with all my fabric though.

A Room With A View

I simply couldn't resist one more gorgeous wisteria photo. It's just never been this good before, and maybe it won't be again. Who knows? We are enjoying it.

The view out the bedroom window.

Marfy Jacket is Done!

Marfy 9419.

I finished my Marfy jacket Tuesday night, except for adding a couple pairs of hooks and eyes above the zipper, which I did this morning. It's fine without the hooks, with a blouse; but to wear it alone, it needs the hooks. I like this jacket very much, and plan to make it again in a thinner fabric, which is what is recommended, and make the skirt also. I originally bought this fabric planning to make a quick little jacket that I could wear casually, and I also thought it would be cute to wear to horse shows. It's not quite so casual as it could be, but I think it's fine for anything. You can see more photos of it, including the silk chiffon lining, and the jacket worn open by clicking here.

Spring Garden

These two photos will give you an idea of why I'm not getting quite as much sewing done lately as I did this winter. Really, with all the perennials I've put in over the years, it's very much a trouble free garden, at least as much as you can have, and still have flowers for 3 seasons. Please click on the photos to see them in a size which does them justice. The wisteria especially is the best it's ever been.

Looking toward the lower yard.

Hanging gardens

More Marfy

No actual sewing today, but I've been flying along with the Marfy jacket, and it is darling! The pattern is wonderful, so beautifully drafted, and with such subtle shaping. I did do the lapels in black, and the sleeve hem binding is going to be black too. One sleeve binding is done, and the other is about half-way there. I will do the lining next, but I haven't decided what to use for it. I'm thinking of a plain color lining, since there's a pattern in the wool, and I think a color would be nice, but nothing too outré. The way the collar lays is so perfect, and the darts within the lapel area give it such a wonderful shaping. Everything about this jacket has turned out exactly as shown in the drawing. In my experience, this is amazing. Apparently with Marfy patterns, it is the norm. I may have to change my allegiance, not that I really had any. I wonder how this jacket would change if made up in a thinner fabric, which is what is recommended. Guess I'll have to find out. Especially since I want to make the skirt too.

Marfy Beginnings

Yesterday I marked and cut out my first Marfy jacket pattern. It's the zip front one shown at the top of this post from February. I'm using a Pendleton wool which is reversible, black and taupe, with brand symbols.

I will use the taupe for the body and the black for the lapels. This is a little heavier than the recommended fabric, but I think it might work. It will be a good trial anyway. I'm just going down to start basting it together, and see where I'm at.

Pattern Play Class Tee Adaptation

These photos are of a jacket made from the Jalie Tee pattern using an adaptation of a Max Mara sweater provided in the Pattern Play class I'm taking as part of my prizes from the Build Your Own Collection contest I won last year on Sewzine. It's an interesting piece, but I'm not sure it's really "me." I used a mystery Slinky knit, which I like, but I'm not sure how much I'd actually wear this.


Pattern Play trial.

Side view

2005 SWAP - Stages I & II

This photo show the 16 pieces which comprise Stages I (shown alone below) and II (5 pieces to the left and below the original pieces. From the left, the new garments are:

Basketweave Cardigan (FSG 1960) Brown band matches Stage I brown doubleknit skirt
Olive Knit 3/4-sleeve Tee (Jalie 2005)
Brown Wool/Rayon Jacket (Self-Drafted Pattern)
Tan Wool Pants (Double Burda)
Taupe Dot Skirt (FFF) matches taupe dot tee from Stage I

I am enjoying these pieces a lot, and have fabric and plans to extend it, with a brown doubleknit cardigan, Clay Knit Tee and Cardigan, Tweed Jacket, etc. I'm sure many of these pieces will be in my wardrobe for years to come, as they're colors I love, and classic styles. This is a wonderful base to build from. It's much easier to extend it, as one can make things that only match some of the previous pieces, not all of them, and of course many of these pieces will go with things that weren't specifically thought of to match them.

2005 SWAP Stage I - 11 Pieces

2005 SWAP I
These are all 11 pieces of my 2005 SWAP, Stage I. From Left to Right, top to bottom, they are:

Brown Rayon/Wool Bias Top (Vogue 2683)
Clay Tee (Jalie 2005)
Plaid Shell (McCalls 2818) embellished with Ultrasuede strip and bow.
Olive Rayon Knit Tee (Jalie 2005)
Olive Rayon Knit Cardigan (FSG 1960)
Taupe Dotted Tee (Jalie 2005)
Cream Textured Tee (Jalie 2005)
Olive Rayon Skirt (FFF)
Brown Doubleknit Skirt (FFF)
Brown Linen/Polyester Pants (Double Burda)
Green Wool Pants (Double Burda)

Last SWAP I piece

This is the brown doubleknit skirt, the last piece in Stage I of my SWAP. I think it looks pretty cute with the plaid top, and it's very nice with the olive cardigan also, or the brown pants, etc. It really does coordinate with any of the pieces, just as it's supposed to.

SWAP is Done!!

I finished the last piece of my Official Stage One SWAP this morning. It's a brown doubleknit FFF skirt. I had to do several tiny alterations to my usual methods, so as usual, nothing is easy. It's the shorter length, which I like, although I decided it should be just a little shorter, so turned up the waistband again and stitched. This took away my usual flat rear alteration, so I had to redo that. No big deal, but not as smooth as I could have wished. This fabric was from Trim Fabric and when I got it I was a little disappointed with it, as I thought the color wasn't so great, but it's been growing on me, and I think the skirt turned out great. I have enough to do a cardigan with this, and it will be very versatile, and will certainly go with the SWAP. I will post a photo soon.

Mrs Stylebook Skirt is a Success!

Mrs Stylebook skirt

Here is a photo of style#36 from the latest Mrs Stylebook magazine made up in a lovely bright pink sueded silk duppioni. The fabric was a gift. Thanks, Pam! It has enough body that it makes the hemline stand out slightly, and I think it turned out pretty cute. I used my regular narrow waistband method instead of their recommended band with elastic in the back. I didn't have to lengthen it at all, and it really went together quickly, not really taking much fabric either. I hope to make another out of a green poppy print charmeuse. It won't have the body of the duppioni, but since it's polyester, it may do all right.

Mrs Stylebook

I just got my copy of Mrs Stylebook today! It was sent to me from California, but came very quickly. There's a thread on Sewing World called Mrs Stylebook Draft Along, and we're all going to draft a skirt pattern from the magazine, which is entirely in Japanese! There is at least one Japanese speaker in the group, and another person who has experience drafting from this magazine. I think it's going to be a lot of fun, and very interesting. It is awfully strange to feel illiterate though.

I still haven't started on my brown knit skirt, but after wearing the olive knit skirt and jacket today, I believe I'll do the brown skirt the same length, which is about 8" shorter than my usual FFF skirts, which are almost ankle length. It just feels right.

Plaid McCalls top with Ultrasuede detailing. Linen/Poly Burda pants.

SWAP Finished?

I think I've finished my SWAP collection tonight. I completed the brown linen/poly pants Monday, and then began on a McCalls 2818 princess seamed shell. I decided to try it out of the very thin plaid polyester before trying it with the lovely batik cotton from Timmel's. I'm really glad I did, as I knew I needed to move the bust point up from last time I made it. I did move it, but not far enough I guess, because when I tried it on, I needed to take a tuck right across the high bust area of an inch! So, I did, tapering to the armscyes. I stitched it down by hand, then added a strip of Ultrasuede binding with a flat bow in the center to cover the stitching and tuck. It really turned out very cute, better than without it, and the fit is great. I tried to take photos tonight, but the flash was doing very weird things to the color, so I'll try again tomorrow in actual light.

The reason I'm not sure I'm finished is that I'm thinking of doing another FFF skirt in the brown doubleknit I used for the band on the basketweave jacket. I planned to make one out of that anyway, and if I make it part of the Official SWAP instead of the dotted skirt, then all the tops will go with all the skirts, as they're supposed to. Otherwise, this plaid top really doesn't go with that dotted skirt. Oh well, it's probably the fastest skirt pattern in the west, so no problem, and it will be a nice little project for this weekend.

Antique Lace

Antique Knitted Silk Lace

This lace is knitted with terribly fine thread. I have 8 yards of it, and it's seamed into a circle. My Mother gave it to me, but I don't really know where she got it. I'm not sure what I'll do with it, but it is quite beautiful. Be sure and click on the photo to see a much more detailed picture.

Olive Tee & Green Pants

Green Double Burda Pants & Olive Jalie Tee for the 2005 SWAP Collection. You can link here to a series of waistband method close ups.

Inside Out

I began on the linen/poly pants this evening, and quickly realized that I had attached the underlining to the right side of one back piece, so ended up starting off with ripping all that out and doing it the right way. Sigh. Oh well, I got them done to the point of the waistband and hem. They go so well, and so quickly, I don't know why I don't make more. Just hate to make pants I guess. I'd like to try some with a drawstring waist for summer. I think they might be kind of nice, and they would definitely be a very thin fabric, and unlined.

Lenten Rose

Lenten Rose (Helleborus Orientalis) blooming right on time, as usual.

Fabrics Etc. from Pendleton

Pendleton Trip

Well, what fun! Yesterday I went to the Pendleton Outlet with Jane, and we did very well indeed! They are unfortunately closing this spring, probably in mid-April, so this may have been my last trip there. I tried to stock up on all the great basics they have, plus fabric of course. I got about 30 yards of various wools, including some of the finest, almost sheer wool I've ever felt; a very soft plaid of butterscotch and cream for a man's shirt. I got 3-5 yards of several plain, light weight, hard finish wools in taupe, dark brown and cream, a navy/natural sharkskin, and several others, including some bright coral tricot, which I've never seen them have before.

Notions included linings, fusible interfacing in black, white and magenta, buttons, shoulder pads, sleeve heads, elastic, Ultrasuede bindings, and zippers. The photo includes some fabric on the right, which I bought there last time.

Last night I cut out the brown linen/poly pants, and the beige cotton underlining I'm using with them, and attached them while staystitching the seams on each piece. I also sewed the darts, so it's on to the zipper today.

I also got brave finally, and soaked one piece of the Resort Tweed in Eucalan, then let it dry flat overnight. This morning I steamed and pressed it, and you can't tell it from the pieces which have not been treated. I'm so pleased! I will do the other two now. I also pressed the Timmel Batik this morning, as I prewashed it last night also. The end of the SWAP is in sight, and none too soon, but I will finish in good time.

Organza Waistband on Green Wool Pants

This afternoon I finished the green wool pants I made for the SWAP collection, and immediately wore them to dinner tonight. They're the same pattern as my tan wool pants, and also a Pendleton wool, but a little more brushed finish than the tan. They turned out beautifully though. I like to use a 1/4" waistband, which I usually make out of a different fabric than the pants, unless they're a really thin fabric. Ribbon works well, but I didn't have anything that went with this, so I stopped at Hancock Fabrics last night, and bought several choices, including a bias binding that was a green mottled-effect print. It really looked great, but I decided it would be just a little too wild for what is a very classic pair of pants. I decided to go with a 1-1/2" dark green nylon organza ribbon.

I stitched the ribbon to the right side of the waistline, then turned it, folding the pant seam allowance down in the process, and pinned, letting the ribbon edge go over the seam on the wrong side and hang down. I hand-stitched it in the ditch, and finished the back end flush, and the front end with an underlap. I used a snap at the edge of the back, and a handworked eye on the end of the front underlap with a hook on the inside band. This is the best combination of fasteners I've found yet for these pants. Very secure, yet easy to open and close, and completely invisible from the right side. I was a little worried that it would be scratchy to wear, but it is not at all. Very comfortable.

I also used the ribbon as a "hem tape," stitching it to the hem edge of the pants, and hemming from it to the underlining. There was no reason to do this really, I just thought it would look cute, and I had plenty of ribbon left. The ribbon has quite a bit of body to it, and actually is a nice hem reinforcement. You can see photos of the waistband at the end of my Pants Gallery.

Bracelet Making

Diamond/Sapphire bracelet I saw that inspired me to look for a suitable buckle to make one in this style.

Inspiration bracelet from Ross-Simon.

This is the buckle set I found at a horse show yesterday that I plan to use to make a bracelet in the style of the diamond/sapphire one above.

Silver Buckle Set

It will obviously be much more casual, but certainly more wearable in my life! I haven't decided what color or type of beads I will use yet.

Wool & Linen Pants

I did most of the construction last night on the green Pendleton tropical-weight wool pants for my SWAP. They are underlined with a matching Pendleton lining, and are my TNT (Tried and True) pants pattern I call the Double Burda, as it was created by morphing 2 Burda pants patterns together. Today I will apply my 1/4" waistband and hem them.

I also prewashed the dark brown linen/poly blend fabric from Timmel Fabrics who are sponsoring the SWAP contest, and it came out beautifully. Very nice and drapey. I plan to use the same pattern for it, although I am toying slightly with the idea of tie-front pants a la Nancy Erickson, but I'm not sure the flat front wouldn't be easier to wear with the other components of the SWAP. I do want to make some of the tie-front pants for high summer though.

Photos of the Olive Knit SWAP Coordinates

I took photos this morning, and some turned out. I didn't know whether I'd like all 3 matching pieces worn together, but it's not too bad.



This picture's kind of fuzzy, but it shows the style well.

SWAPping Along

I started and finished the 2 Jalie Tees from the olive rayon knit tonight. I did the hems with a 3-step zigzag which worked very well, and doesn't show at all due to the texture of the knit, and the very good thread match. So good it's practically impossible to rip out, of course. I now only have 3 pieces left to do in the Stage I SWAP, which is for the competition. Here's a link to my SWAP Coordinates List

If I'd start sewing earlier in the day, who knows how much I could accomplish? I seem to be on a very weird schedule lately, and here I am still up at 1:30, so no hurry, is there?

Olive Skirt

Well, I decided that the olive knit skirt is just fine, and in fact wore it to sing at Musical Art Club on Monday, with the cardigan and a crocheted shell. It's shorter than my other FFF skirts, but still almost mid-calf length, and is actually a more practical length I think.

I'm hoping to get back into SWAP sewing with a will Friday, as my luncheon was today and so I can concentrate on other things now. I'm going to do the 2 olive tops, and then move on to a blouse and the 2 pair of pants.

SWAP Jacket done.

Knit Cardigan Unbuttoned
I finished this cardigan this afternoon, after buying buttons for it yesterday. This is the Jacket for my SWAP, and I'm pretty pleased with it, and I think it hangs well, although it appears to be extremely vulnerable to snagging. I finished the skirt also, but may redo the hem, as it wants to have quite a flare to it, which is certainly in fashion, but I'm not sure it looks too great on me. I may have to look at it for a while before I decide. I also have 2 Jalie Tees cut out from this fabric. They'll go quickly.

Knit Cardigan Buttoned

Perennial Buttons

Buttons from Perennial Buttons, for Olive Rayon Cardigan. I believe these may be bone, but they're definitely a natural material, with brass pieces inset. They're not terribly heavy, which is good, as the fabric is lightweight.

More SWAP

I finished the Olive Rayon Cardigan and Skirt tonight except for the buttons and buttonholes on the cardigan, and the hem on the skirt. I need to go look at buttons, as I don't have any I like. Hard to believe, as I have tons of buttons. Actually, I have 2 that are great, but I need 4. I think I may be able to get more of these, so I will have to look, otherwise it's off to Earth Bead Gallery to look at their button area. I think I will do a twin needle hem on the skirt. It could use the weight. It's actually a very nice, drapey knit, but it's a little clingy, as it's quite thin. It also seems a little fragile, and perhaps prone to snagging. I hope that does not prove to be the case.

Next I will work on the 2 Jalie Tees I was able to get out of the 5 yards with the cardigan and skirt. One has 3/4 sleeves and the other is short-sleeved.

Anthropologie Scores!

Finally, something I actually would wear from Anthropologie, seemingly everyone's favorite wearable style site. They have lots of cute things, but very few that actually seem wearable by me.
Crinkled silk strips, but not the carwash effect, and the hem is raw, as is the top, probably with petersham ribbon inside. I really like the stitching around the hip area. It reminds me of a similar stitched hip area on a silk pleated skirt in Vogue Knitting last year. This would be quick and easy, and very cute for spring.

SWAP Olive Rayon Knit Pieces

I'm finally back to some "official" pieces of my SWAP collection. I've cut out the NE Cardigan, FFF Skirt, and 2 Jalie Tees from the olive rayon knit. It almost takes longer to do the pockets on the cardigan than the whole rest of it. Anyway, I'm up to putting the front band on. It's nice to be getting somewhere on this collection again.

I went to Sewing Guild tonight, and in fact led the meeting (such as it was) in the absence of the president. The program was given by a member who's a certifies Palmer/Pletsch fitting instructor, and was very good. Everyone agreed she'd have to do another one soon, as she didn't get through all that we wanted to hear.

Gardening has been interfering with sewing for the last few days, but it's quite cold and very windy again, so that may stop for a while.

Interesting fabric.

Wonderful fabric from Diane von Furstenberg. Wouldn't this be fun to create with applied knit or bias strips? Even the same color would be very interesting. Perhaps a jacket with the embellishment, and a plain skirt or dress.

Very casual!

Cardigan Is Done

I finished the cardigan Saturday night except for cutting the buttonholes open and sewing on the buttons. I applied FrayCheck and left it to dry overnight.

x
In general I'm pleased by the way this turned out. Especially since the fabric was not considered ideal for this pattern.

My SWAP progress appears to be mostly sideways, as this is yet another adjunct piece and not one of the actual 11. I suppose it could be, but I'm planning on starting on the Olive Rayon Knit cardigan, skirt and top next, and those are some of the
real SWAP pieces. I still have quite a lot of time left, so should be okay.

I bought two interesting knits this evening. One is a sheer, lacy cream colored piece that will make lovely undershirts, and the other is a thin rust colored matte knit. I think it will be a Tee. Still buying fabric faster than I seem to be able to make it up. It was ever thus.

More Cardigan Work

I'm so pleased with the Italian Wool Basketweave Cardigan. I bought this fabric under the mistaken impression that it was recommended for this pattern, even though it's a woven, and then found that it wasn't. I read on Sewing World of someone else who was adapting the cardigan pattern for wovens, and it didn't sound like she was changing much. So, I finally just forged ahead and tried it. It has turned out beautifully, and last night I hemmed it and put the shoulder pads in, so it is all done except for the buttonholes, and I think I'm going to line it. It would be nice to have a slick interior. It makes it so much easier to slip it on and off. I will also be using some of the brown doubleknit to make a top and skirt. I may use a little of the basketweave for trimming.

Italian Wool Basketweave from Nancy Erickson. 

Chanel Cognac Boucle' from Michael's Fabrics 

Multitasking

I've been very busy doing lots of fabric prep, working on my SWAP, purchasing fabric, etc.

I got my Marfy patterns Monday, and checked them against my Saran block, and they are incredibly close to what I need. So, I hope that will mean few alterations. The patterns are so interesting looking. They're on a heavy tissue with almost a waxed feel, cut out already, and darts, etc. cut out. No instructions, just stamped letters on the pieces showing where the match points are. I'm really hoping for great results.

I decided to go ahead and prewash the olive rayon knit for the Nancy Erickson cardigan, etc. and also changed the shoulder slope on the cardigan to more closely match mine, and removed some of the space allowed for shoulder pads. I like a small pad, but this pattern has needed a pretty big one. I got brave and cut out the brown wool basketweave for this. The scan of the fabric is posted above. I bought it specifically for this pattern, and then was told it wouldn't work, as it's not a knit. I really thought it would, and it's actually great. I used a dark brown doubleknit for the front bands, and it looks great. I'm now trying to decide whether to do some kind of triangular embellishment on the left front shoulder, or put on fake welt pockets. I don't want the weight of regular pockets, but the line might be nice. I will just have to see. I put some of Judy Barlup's straight staytape down the inside of the band foldline. I've had trouble with those stretching out before, even though it's interfaced. I hope this will do the trick. It needs hems, buttonholes and a lining. Then it will be done.

I bought a fabulous fabric on Tuesday. It's a Chanel boucle in a cognac color from Michael's Fabrics. It's even more gorgeous in person. The scan of the fabric is posted above. It will be a suit, and I just hope I can do it justice. It has cellophane as one of the components of the weave, so it is rather unusual.

Colorblocked Vogue 2683 Bias Top from Pendleton rayon/wool blend. 

Bias Top Unbound

I finished the bias top from Vogue 2683 Sunday evening. I finally got some pictures today, and one of them is posted above. Here is a link to more photos.

I also took and posted some photos of shoes I have covered to match various garments. I hadn't thought about them for a while, then hemmed a scarf this winter from a remnant, and realized I have shoes to match it (and a 2-piece dress too.)
This is the scarf and shoes. There are more pictures here.

I also got my Marfy patterns in the mail today! I only ordered last Sunday, and I think a week is amazingly fast from Italy. I can't wait to get started, but I do have a few other things that ought to come first.

I received swatches from Michael's of several fabrics today too, but especially of a cognac boucle that is really calling my name. A friend alerted me to it, and she really knew my taste. Thank you Patti! I will be calling them tomorrow to order.

So, all in all, quite a lovely day, although no actual sewing was done. It was 65 degrees today, and I worked in the garden for an hour or so. It was wonderful to get outside and just do something.

More Bias Top

I attached the binding around the neck and armholes of the DKNY top today. I did it by hand, and it turned out very well, and probably was faster than if I'd pinned, stitched, ripped, etc. I think I could cut in the front armscyes a little with no trouble, but it's a nice look the way it is.

I took in all the seams at the bottom after turning up the hem. The instructions only have you stay stitch the seams from the waist up before stitching, and I think it would have been a good idea to do the whole seam. I wondered at the time, but I'm not a bias expert. After I tapered the seams, I turned up the hem again, basted it and eased it. I will hem it tomorrow. I think this will be great in the tweed and in the silk, although I suppose it will be a whole different experience in a thin silk. Oh well.

Now I'm wondering if I should be making the bias skirt to match the jacket, or if the shapes are even going to work well together. In my book there's nothing wrong with a nice, straight skirt. I wonder if I might possibly have enough fabric for both. I guess I'll just have to see.

Bias Top Beginning

I cut out my test of the bias top (Vogue 2683) last night, and put it together. I am very pleased with the results so far. I will attach the armhole and neck bindings today, and probably hem it also. I let it hang overnight so it should be ready to hem. I was very worried after I sewed the sides to the front. It seemed enormous, but I went ahead and put the zipper in (I only used a 7" zipper instead of the 22" they call for, and it's fine) and sewed the backs to the sides. Once you put it on, it hangs out long and skinny, like bias should, and it's fine. I had to do a little tweaking on the side/front seam on one side, but I think that's the nature of bias fabric. It looks like it could be a great dress if you lengthened it. I'm doing a color-blocking effect on this, with one side and one half of the back in the reverse side of the fabric.

Forging Ahead

Well, I finally just plunged in and finished altering my pattern for the top of Vogue 2683. this evening, and will test it tomorrow. It will eventually be done in the Resort Tweed if things work out, but right now I'm testing in the brown rayon/wool that I made the Drafted Jacket from. I followed the advice of many sources in purchasing the pattern by the shoulder size and altering the rest, which is a lot of altering in my case, but why not try? I'm kind of excited about this, as the pattern looks fairly good in my opinion. We'll soon see!

Fabric Prep A-Plenty

I just couldn't decide what to work on the last couple of days. I've been altering a pattern, but I just am not inspired with it yet, so I've been doing all kinds of prewashing of fabrics. I did the NE Italian Wool Basketweave and FabricMart Dark Taupe Wool Crepe in Eucalan and dried them flat, then steamed them. Both came out beautifully, with no shrinkage or change in hand. I also washed some knits, including a mottled chamois colored Slinky knit. I haven't worked with Slinky before, and I'm sure that's what this is, but of course, it's officially a "mystery knit."

Today may not be a real sewing day either, as I go to Morning Musical Review this morning, and another appointment this afternoon. We'll see.

Change of Mind

Change of mind...wouldn't that be nice? Or not. Oh well, it just struck me funny after I typed it.

I've been thinking and thinking about what's wrong with that Marfy top, and tried it on again last night with a long skirt, thinking that might help elongate the line, and improve the look, and I realized that its problem is that I didn't shorten the top between the shoulder and bust. Quite an oversight, and look at the problems it caused. I pinned the shoulders where they should be, and suddenly it all falls into place, and is much better. Here is even a photo of the new, improved version. It's still not my best thing, and even with a matching skirt, would seem to be for an event I'm not planning to attend, so it's going to a friend's 7-year-old for the Dress Up Box, along with the rest of the embellishment yarn. She's learning to knit, so a boa would be great fun with this. I may make another version in a different color, with perhaps more subtle embellishment, and I really think sleeves or something would improve this. Perhaps swags of the yarn over the shoulder in lieu of sleeves.

Semi-Productive Day

Not really a productive day in some ways, but I got a lot done. I finished the Marfy top and embellished the front panel with tufty eyelash yarn and the Embellisher, which is kind of cute. I also put one row of yarn around the neckline and armholes. All this in aid of trying to make it look good on me, which it isn't ever going to because of the hemline. I also don't really need all those gathers in the front, but it's the hemline that's the worst. I just don't need curves like that. Oh well, the fit was what I was after, and I found out that's the size I need, so I ordered the other patterns today. I assume it will take at least a couple weeks to get them. We shall see.

I also did enough on my second version drafted jacket to find that it's not a success. I will revert to the version I used with the brown fabric. I'm going to check it and my block against Cynthia Guffey's pattern and see how that will be. I suppose I'd better do a muslin of it too before I try it, if I do. It's time to decide on the official jacket for my SWAP though. It may be the olive rayon knit NE #1960 cardigan, which I need anyway.

Marfy Top

I finished the Marfy top last night except for the edge finishes (which they give no clue about) and the embellishing, which I didn't do yet since this was a fit test, and I wanted to be done in a hurry so I can order the other patterns today. I was very pleasantly surprised that the fit on this is really good without any alterations. I measured the pattern, which seemed like it was fine, and hoped for the best. I used a tan heather jersey knit (jersey was the first recommended fabric) and interfaced the center panel. I omitted the back zipper since it's a stretchy knit, and I have no trouble getting it over my head. It is fairly close fitting, but certainly not too tight, so I am pretty pleased. It definitely needs the embellishment so that it has a good focal point. I am thinking of using binding at the arm and neck edges, turned to the inside, with perhaps topstitching which would "match" the embellishment. Otherwise, I think just turning and invisibly hemming will be the way to go.

I think this would be very nice in a crepe, which is the other recommended fabric, or something with a nice drape and not so much clinginess. I will think about how to embellish this, and post a photo if I like it. The color will definitely go with my SWAP. What more can I ask?

Marfy Pattern

I received the Spring/Summer Marfy pattern catalog this week, and I made up one of the two free patterns offered so I could see what size I need to order for the two patterns I want to order. The first one has the most interesting skirt, and the second one is to be made in a print fabric with lace overlay around the edges. I plan on a straight skirt with this one rather than the pleated one shown.

The free pattern is for a top and a kimono sleeved jacket. I made the top and am very pleased with the fit and moderately pleased with the style. It's not something I would have chosen on my own, but it's interesting, and I think I will do some embellishing on the front triangle as is shown, which will improve the general look. I used a jersey fabric for this and skipped the back zipper. This is the free pattern. . It would be cute in crepe too, the other recommended fabric.

Because I wanted to be able to order the Marfy patterns tomorrow, I put off working on my second version of the drafted jacket pattern similar to the one I finished on Thursday. It's a little smaller and more fitted, so I hope I like it as well. I'm using a small houndstooth check in a very pale pink and black. I don't know what it will go with, but I had the fabric, so thought I might as well use it.

Jacket Pictures

I took photos of the brown drafted jacket today. . I think it turned out pretty well. It's definitely a casual look, but that's what I expected. I think narrowing the shoulders and using fusible underlining on the next one will improve it quite a bit. You can see
more photos here. The cream tee in some of the photos is from the SWAP collection too.

I also took photos of the tees and first FFF skirt I made for the SWAP being worn. You can see them here. I like all of them, and am especially pleased with the clay colored tee. I found enough of the fabric to make a matching skirt, and possibly a Nancy Erickson cardigan too.

Jacket is Done

I finished the brown "test" jacket tonight. The lining worked very well, I like my adjustments, and it is quite nice to wear. Looks like it will go with a lot of things, including the large-scale Pendleton plaid skirt I made last year that was sort of an orphan. I hope to take photos tomorrow, probably after I go to the dentist.

Laryngitis imminent today. My voice comes and goes, and I try not to talk. Coughing is still a problem, but not too often. I scheduled a rehearsal for the soprano/oboe/piano song cycle next Wednesday. Surely I'll be healthy by then.

My fabrics from Timmels came Saturday. Very nice, and also got the new swatch group. Quite a few cute things, but I'm trying to just stay out of temptation for a while. I'm afraid I probably do have enough fabric for a while anyway!

Jacket Progress

I've been fighting a cold/sore throat since Friday night, and today I'm losing my voice a little. So, I'm not talking much, which is quite a penance.

I've been slowly but steadily working on my jacket, and it's coming right along. The lining is all in, I've taken in the Center Back seam about 2" at the bottom, tapering to nothing near the neck. This is quite an improvement. I think my next effort should have an inch taken out of each side of the back at the center of the shoulder all the way to the hem, and the same in the front, but only to the bust point.

I've hemmed the jacket itself, and decided on an even hem all the way around. Next I will hem the lining. This is going to be a very handy jacket, which seems to go with a lot of things in my wardrobe besides the new SWAP. I'm hoping to finish it tomorrow and perhaps take photos.