Marfy 1949 Skirt Progress & Thank You

First of all, I just want to thank all of you who were so kind as to help me celebrate my article in Threads Magazine. It's been so great to read all the well-wishes, and sharing it with you has been almost the best part of the whole thing. I expect to see lots of matching shoes now. Vicki, this means you!

Now on to current projects. I thought you might be interested in seeing the layout for the Marfy skirt I'm working on.
Photo Link
This is the main skirt piece, and as you can see it's on the bias. Yes, I did iron the pattern before I laid it out, but I thread traced it and was ready to cut and had folded the pattern back up, then decided to take a photo. You can sort of see where I altered it, just at the CB top, tapering to nothing at the hem. I have a very high hip, and the draping didn't fall nicely until I got a little extra room where I need it instead of the usual 7"-9" below the waist. The only other changes I'm making is doing the waistband about half as wide as the original. I just don't have room for a wide waistband, and truth to tell, this one at half-width looks pretty wide on me.

I'm underlining with silk organza, and it's been a challenge to get it together smoothly when it's all on the bias. Hand sewing and a lot of pins have been the only thing that works. I've got everything cut out except the bias strips I'm going to use to make piping.

You can also get a pretty good look at the fabric I'm using for this. It's Pendleton wool in a very light weight. I think it has a butterscotch color to it, and I think the fabric is going to be great for this draped skirt.

Just to end on a weird note, I've been missing about 8 or 9 everyday teaspoons for a while now. I could not imagine where they went, as no one's been here, I haven't taken any silverware out of the house, and while I suppose I might possibly throw away a spoon accidentally, nine of them at once seemed unlikely. I didn't really dig through things hunting, as I was sure they'd show up fairly soon. After all, how far could they have gone? I finally found them the other day when I looked in the china closet and there they were in the spoon holder for my silver tea service. I had used them when I had club last, and then stuck the holder with the spoons still in it, into the china closet. I usually use the silver spoons with the tea set, and I don't know why I didn't this time, but I made myself a lot of trouble. Anyway, I was really pleased to find them.

I'm in Threads Magazine!

Yes, I'm tooting my own horn a little (a lot!) but I'm so excited to say that I have an article in Threads Magazine this month.

My article is called Custom Covered Shoes, and it's about covering shoes to match your clothing, or whatever you want to match.


It all began in January when I got an email from a Threads assistant editor asking me to contact them. I was very excited to learn that they had seen some of my shoes in photos I had posted, and they were interested in having me do an article about how to do them. So, it's been a long time coming, but there was a lot to do, what with writing, rewriting, editing, photos, sending them my shoes and some matching garments, like the blouse in the photo, etc. It was always exciting when I got a letter or email from them. Everyone I worked with was so very professional, and so nice. It was a joy from beginning to end, and now to see it in print and get to share it with all of you is almost the best part of all.

The very end of the article shows my favorite shoe of all. It's a silk matka with fiber embellishments that were great fun to do, and I have a Marfy jacket that matches it, and here's the cover of this issue.

Melange

As my title suggests, there are a lot of disparate items in this post. From sewing to books to soap, I'm putting it all in here.

If you are a regular reader of Stitcher's Guild, you'll already know that I also asked there for advice on underlining my skirt, and among several answers got a very thoughtful question from Ann Rowley. She wondered if this fabric was really right for this design. It made me stop and think, and after some testing, I decided that she was right. I'm so glad she stopped me before I made a terrible error and wasted that gorgeous fabric.

I've been searching the inventory and have almost positively decided on a fabric which seems much more suitable. It's a Pendleton wool plain in a pinky-beige/cream/brown combination. It's a very fine, lightweight fabric that seems to drape beautifully on the bias. I will almost certainly underline it with something, but I haven't started testing that yet. I need to make a muslin from my corrected pattern and make sure it's just right before I start on the real thing.

Meanwhile, I sewed another pair of pants last night while procrastinating from some bookwork I should have been doing.

I have enjoyed looking at the various styles that Sigrid has put in her Inspiration file, and I thought it would be fun to try to copy these.

While I didn't get a perfect copy by any means, I'm fairly well pleased with these, and I know there are a few things I'd try next time if I do another pair. Photo Link The original has a 2-layer front piece, and this may help form the top bands a little more easily. I also would make the top band area wider so I had more to work with. Generally, I think they're kind of cute, though. The lace is some that I have had for years, waiting for a suitable project.

I was thrilled to find that several of you also have a fond feeling for The Encyclopedia of Needlework by Therese de Dillmont, which I discussed in the last post. I have ordered my own copy since then, and was able to get what I hope is going to be the exact edition my mother has. There are lots of reprints available, but I wanted an original. Miaaa, It was so interesting to hear that you have your grandmother's copy too!

My sister, who's very smart of course, is contributing two items to this post. First, she found the Encyclopedia of Needlework online in its entirety. Someone has posted it all, so if an online version will make you happy, it's here. The illustrations are very nice and clear, and there's a nice index, so it should be very usable.

Encyclopedia of Needlework Online

She also told me how to refill my foaming handsoap dispenser. In case you have one, you don't have to buy a new bottle every time. Just use the regular liquid handsoap and mix it with water in about a 1:3 ratio of soap:water. Stir well, and that's it. So instead of paying more for less soap and more water, just refill. Maybe everyone else already knew this, but I sure didn't.

Decisions, Decisions

I got my skirt muslin altered satisfactorily, I think, and I'm going to test it in muslin one more time, but now I'm thinking about what I'm going to use for underlining for this skirt. I'm seriously thinking about using muslin, and I'm wondering if this would be a huge mistake.

The skirt fabric itself is slightly stiff, and has plenty of body. The underlining is going to provide a nicer 'bend' to the fabric when it needs it. I don't think organza is indicated at all. The skirt will have to be lined with such a non-slip underlining, but I would almost certainly have lined it anyway, so that is neither here nor there. It's no more non-slip than batiste would be, and that would be another choice. Do I need to get actual batiste, or could this be an acceptable substitute. This is a fairly thin muslin, and is a nice smooth fabric, much like sheeting, and since the entire skirt is on the bias with only the one seam, it needs to be something fairly light that can be supported mostly from the waistband alone.

I will try to post something soon on the elastic and findings dyeing I've been doing. Those who asked whether the general sewing of the things is time consuming will be glad to know that the answer is no. The panties especially are very fast, and the bras go surprisingly quickly as well.

I brought a book home from my mother's yesterday. I remember it always being in our home, and although it's promised to my sister, I brought it home to read and look through again. It's Encyclopedia of Needlework by Therese de Dillmont, published by DMC. There's no copyright date on it, but the British Library says 1907. It's just the size to put in a workbag, being about 3"x5" and almost 2" thick. Looking it over last night, I think I may have to get a reprint for myself. It has everything from plain sewing to needle and bobbin lace, tapestry, knitting, netting, just anything to do with needlework. I was very surprised to find separate instructions for handsewing buttonholes in linen and in dress materials. I like vintage sewing books, and I have a special feeling for this one.

Here's the first waterlily of the season. I was very surprised to see it as I hadn't even noticed the bud, and suddenly there was a beautiful flower.

Another Lingerie Set

I made another bra and panty set Sunday from a different pattern than I've used before. This one was copied from a ready-to-wear bra by Panache, and I think it turned out nicely. It has a horizontal top piece instead of the angled style of the Freya copy, and it gives a different look, and a little different shape I think.

Photo Link

I tried several different techniques with this bra. I used a spaghetti strap attachment for the main strap, a detail that caught my eye in an advertisement, and which I've been anxious to try.

Photo Link

Since I'd made a lot of spaghetti tubing to do the straps, I thought I'd use some of it as embellishment, and liked the little roses I came up with. I used one at each strap attachment point, one at CF, and one on a pair of matching panties I made.
Photo Link

I used the print under the lace on the top cup piece, which gives it more stability than the lace alone. All the other pieces are lined with powernet. Although it looks like there's a wrinkle in the bridge, that disappears when it's worn.

Photo Link

The 6" wide stretch lace and the brown lycra are both from my Fabric Depot bundles, and the print is something I had on hand, originally thinking I'd make a tank top or something, and I still have plenty left. It's a soft mesh knit. I dyed all the elastic, the strapping and the closure to match the main print color.

Photo Link

These are the two pairs of panties I made to match this bra. I have enough stuff to make several more of one design or another. The pair on the left uses the full width of the lace, and for the the other, I trimmed the lace to about 2 1/2", or the width of one set of motifs. I still am very happy with the no-elastic look on the legs, so I'm continuing to use the style.

There are a few more photos here.

Thrills and Chills

Isn't it fun when sewing gets really exciting again? I keep plugging away, and although I always enjoy it and wouldn't quit for anything, every now and then I just get thrilled with an idea or a little progress on something, and suddenly I'm on a high with no ceiling in sight. Yesterday it happened with a skirt I'm working on.

I thought I was getting a little stuck on lingerie, and I ought to work on something else, like how about one of this season's Marfy patterns I bought? I thought I'd start with this skirt, Marfy #1949.
Photo Link

I knew I was probably going to have to enlarge the pattern a little at least because most Marfy patterns have almost no ease, and I didn't want a really form-fitting skirt. Also since this pattern has only one seam, at CB, is cut on the bias, and has no dart shaping, and only one partial side seam in the pocket, a muslin was a necessity. Actually, the pattern pieces had me stymied for a while because there are so many waistband pieces. There are 6 waistband pieces. One for the front, one for left back, one for the right back, and inner pieces for each of these, so the band has a seam at the top. Then there is a front and back piece that go between the waistband and the skirt to form the pocket, and of course a pocket bag front. It's a beautifully made pattern, but it took me a while to lay it out so I could figure out what was going on. Then it seemed perfectly logical.

So, I was working on this pattern, and also trying to think about what fabric I would use. I wanted to use a plaid or check as shown in the drawing, but what? Suddenly light dawned, and I thought of a piece I got from Elliott Berman's sale, and the perfection of the combination just thrilled me.
Photo Link
I had originally thought of a skirt from it, but nothing specific, and this seemed perfect. I checked, and I think I will have enough. I have about a yard and a half. Luckily, there's no matching necessary, except on the waistband if i want it there, and since there's gathering on the skirt, it won't match perfectly there anyway. I hope it's going to turn out as well as I think it could.

Meanwhile, I haven't quit on the lingerie thing either. It's almost instant gratification sewing, and mixing the colors, fabric, laces, etc. is so much fun, and unlike anything else I do. I have another set in mind, and have copied another RTW bra for a different style, so I will try that.

Jeans Again, Finally

Photo Link

I've been without any jeans for quite a while now, and I've been meaning to make another pair, but just wasn't getting to it. Finally, I cut them out and sewed them up, and I don't know why I waited. They're just what I need for what I call 'wearing around', which is my main wardrobe need right now. With the gardening season truly upon us, I think these are just in time. Here's a side view.

Photo Link

Nothing new, special or fancy about these. It's my usual Burda TNT pattern and I think it's actually the same denim I used in the last pair I made about 2 years ago. I bought a whole bunch of denim several years ago and used a lot of it for tractor seat covers, car seat protectors, and anything I needed a big piece of heavy fabric for. I have enough left for probably one more pair of pants, and that's about it. Unlike the last pair, I didn't put on back pockets (I don't think I ever used those pockets anyway) and I didn't do any interesting topstitching on these, where on the last pair I used variegated thread and had a good time doing it. This time I just wanted pants to wear, in a hurry. I did do my usual size zipper, with a pocket stay and side pockets on both sides.

Besides the jeans, I'm participating in Sigrid's Lingerie Sew Along, and I've made another couple pairs of panties. These are truly getting addictive.

Photo Link

These are a plaid mesh knit that I've had on hand for several years, and some stretch lace from my FabricDepot collection.

Finally, here's a photo of my garden that I took yesterday.
Photo Link

Camisole Set

Continuing on my lingerie-sewing kick, I did a couple more pairs of panties and a camisole. I've never found a camisole pattern I was very crazy about, but I have kept my eyes open, and finally noticed some reviews of #128 from the December, 2008 issue of Burda WOF. I traced it the other night, decided I'd try it with a size 44 in the front and a 40 in the back, a trick I use with knitting patterns a lot. It turned out nice, and although I think I may add a little length to the bodice front next time, it's pretty cute as is. Here it is with one of the pants that match it.

Photo Link It's quite a thin mesh knit print, but the color and print make it seem fairly opaque. The bodice is doubled, as per the pattern instructions. This pattern has a longer version shown as a nightgown, which could be very nice.

Here are the other 2 pairs of panties I made.
Photo Link For these two I tried a method I saw in a review of a Jalie pattern. That pattern calls for hemmed leg edges with no elastic. The reviewer left the cut edge raw for a flatter finish, and seemed to be very pleased. Nothing ventured, nothing gained, so I did two pairs this way. I can always go back and put elastic on them if I decide to. I wore one pair, and I have to say I was surprised how they stayed put, and were very comfortable, and cute, too. I'm going to give it a longer test, but so far, I think it's a success.

The stretch laces on these are all from the group I got from Fabric Depot, and I like the way they look and feel. The white/gold panty matches one of the bras I made. Part of the fun of these is thinking of small embellishments or decorations for them. Of this group of three, my favorite is the 2 small knots.

Photo Link

Here are some details of the camisole including the shell-edge hem, and the bows over the strap placement.

Photo Link

Photo Link

And here it is on me.

Photo Link

Stretch Lace A-Plenty

You can get a better look at all the photos in this post by clicking on this
Link to All Photos. Choose Original size for the best detail.

These are some of my favorites out of the treasure trove of stretch laces I got from Fabric Depot when I ordered one of their Stretch Lace Value Packs (4 pounds of assorted laces) and one of their Lycra Value Packs (10 pounds of assorted color lycras.) It was quite the bargain, and I did get some color choice on the lycras. Susan offered me pastels, brights, or darks, and I said I liked muted colors, and pastels were okay but not 'baby pastels,' and I didn't want any black. I'm not picky, am I? She said she thought she could do that, and I am very pleased with what she sent. I got 9 colors of lycra, each a very usably-sized piece, in varying weights and qualities. Some satin, some matte, all very nice.


And of course the laces are just utterly fantastic! Here's a view of the whole shebang.


There are really wide pieces, up to 11", and narrow ones of 3/8" with every size in between. There are 39 individual styles and colors, with varying lengths from a couple yards up to at least 10. Plenty to make all kinds of things that I haven't even thought of yet.

And now, just to make you drool a little....




The widest pieces.


Medium-Wide Pieces.


The Narrowest Laces.

There are some of the wider laces that are going to be a challenge to find a good/worthy use for. Some of them are galloons with matching edges on both sides, some are quite wide, with the fancy part usually at one edge, or in one case, with the fancy part in the center, and different patterns on each side. That one is blue, and about 10" wide. I'm sure it was made for a specific purpose, but it isn't coming to mind right away. You can see it below, and see what you think.


One of the most unusual pieces is this piece with an oriental figure. She has a small crystal in the center of her forehead. I think this is just lovely, and since it has to be used with the edge up, I thought of a bodice for a nightgown or possibly a camisole.


I thought this was very pretty, and kind of unusual, in that it looks like it's ruffled on the edges, but it's actually just embroidered to look as if it were ruffled.


There's some really nice white mesh elastic with scalloped edges that has the name Gilly Hicks, Sydney woven in the center every so often. I hadn't heard of her, but the website was interesting. There's about 3 yards with the name, and about 10 yards plain.

I've already used a few of the laces on some panties, and it's so much fun to be able to choose just the right thing from a wide selection.

Fearless?

I don't generally do these 'blog things' but I saw this on Gaile's blog and was interested. So, here's My Word.

Your Word is "Fearless"

You see life as your one chance to experience everything, and you just go for it! You believe the biggest risk is being afraid and missing out on something amazing. Sometimes your fearlessness means you're daring. You enjoy risky activities. And sometimes your fearlessness means you're courageous. You're brave enough to do the right thing, even when it's scary.

What's Your Word?

I have to say that I don't feel very fearless, but I did say the other day that I've always felt like I could do pretty much anything I could think up. Maybe that's fearless?

Thank you all for the very sweet comments on my pink leopard set. I especially liked all the Grrr-ing.

Now It's Getting Silly - Pink Leopard

Photo Link

This fabric has been in my remnant area for about 2 years. I originally used it for a Marfy tank top, and I thought it would make cute panties. I had some wide stretch lace, so I cut the 3-piece hipster pant, and used the lace for the top band. The pair on the right is this pair.

Naturally, I then began to think how cute a matching bra would be. This is definitely pretty far on the wild side for me, but since it's pink, there was no way to say no.


Photo Link

I used my copied pattern, and for the different CF detail I copied a different RTW bra that had this same detail. It was fairly easy to do, as you simply cut your bridge shorter, fold the edge of the cup above the bridge to the inside, and stitch it to the channeling directly. Then put in a spacer piece.


Photo Link

In wearing it seems to act just as it would if the bridge were solid all the way up. The thing I realized after I'd already begun is that the channeling and underwire would have to fold into the cup rather than away from it. I thought there would be enough stretch in the cup to make this work anyway, and by the time I realized it, I was pretty far along, so I just went ahead, and it seems to be fine.

I used double-sided plush elastic with ruffles for the straps, narrow grosgrain ribbon bows, and powernet under everything but the lace.

After I finished the bra, I thought I'd better see if I had enough fabric left for a second pair of panties. Since I was using a wide stretch lace on the hipster style, I knew I was cutting 2" off the top edge anyway, so I thought I might eke it out. I ended up with a seam at CB and a seam at the side-front that I put a small daisy trim over. I angled the seam to make it a little more 'planned' looking rather than a necessity, which is what it was.

Photo Link

I haven't worn this set yet, so I can't say how it is over an entire day, but it seems to fit just the same as the others I've done, and I have to say I'm pleased with it, even if it is pretty silly. Sometimes silly is just right.

Lingerie Fabric & Findings (By Request)

I've sewn lingerie at various times over the years, and one of the most difficult things about lingerie sewing is finding the correct fabrics and especially the notions. Fabrics are much more available than notions, although some of the specialty fabrics are tough to find, too. I promised BeeBee I'd give her some elastic sources, and she suggested I put it on Stitcher's Guild so that everyone would be equally enabled, and now I've been asked by an anonymous commenter to post the information here as well.

First of all, I have a post here (linked on the sidebar) called Fabrics and Findings Source Links that gives links for many online fabric and notions sources, including lingerie sources. I've been keeping this post updated since August, 2005 as I find and try new sources. The date of the most recent editing will show at the bottom of that link list.

A little idea of what you might find at these sites is:

Elastics for lingerie are often going to be against your skin rather than encased, and what you want is the plush elastic, which has one side that's very soft. There is also strap elastic, for straps, which is stronger and less stretchy. You can find these plain or fancy, and the plush often has picots on one or both edges to give a pretty finish that peeks out. There are some with ruffles or lace on the edge(s) as well. I ordered some printed elastic too, which is very pretty. Narrow and wider stretch laces can be used in place of elastic for panties too. Styles seem to come and go, so if you see something that's unusual, you may want to snap it up as that may be all there is. Don't forget that most elastics and findings are easily dyeable.

Underwires and channeling (a pre-made casing for the underwire) used to be the sticking points if you wanted to sew bras. They just were almost impossible for the individual to find. Now they're more widely available, and all of the sites I've been looking at carry them. The sizing is now the sticking point. Some of the sites measure the length, some measure the widest point across and the depth. It's very difficult, but some sites have PDFs you can download with scans of the wires to compare to your bra or pattern. I noticed that one site, ELingerieA, sells sets of 6 pairs in different size ranges so you can pick the one closest to you and then compare a range of 6. This seems like a good idea if you're not at all sure. None of the sites have interchangeable sizing either, so that's unhandy as well.

I would also suggest that if you're even slightly unsure as to whether you're wearing the correct bra size, you check out the (long, but very worthwhile) thread on Stitcher's Guild called Bra Fitting--Expert Tips. Even if you think you're wearing the right size, you may be surprised and pleased by trying some of the tips Dotty gave us from her years as a professional fitter. I know I changed my outlook and bra size a lot after finally taking it all seriously and doing the work of finding the right size.

All of the sites seem to carry about the same categories, but they all have different products for the most part, so there's a wide variety available. Some of the sites offer kits for bras, which is handy to start with because you'll get everything (or almost) that you need to make a bra. For the kits, you will have to order underwires separately, and also powernet if you want to use it, and for larger sizes, it's really necessary.

There's a thread called Lingerie Findings and Notions on Stitcher's Guild about this very thing, as I said above, and I'm going to copy some of the info from that thread here, with the vendors in alphabetical order, except the vendors Zora noted on Stitcher's Guild are all at the end.


Bra-makers Supply is a Canadian company. They have all the supplies you'll need to make bras, undies, and other lingerie. They also have a blog with lots of info on how to do it all. They carry patterns, underwires, closures, very nice jewelry quality findings, elastics, fabrics, etc. There's a lot of help available here if you read through all of the posted information.

ELingerieA is a German site that has bra kits, underwires, channeling, all the findings for bras and panties including lots of lovely elastics. They also have different bra patterns than I've seen on other sites, with a much wider range of cup sizes. I still ended up tracing my pattern from a bra I have, but they do go up to an H cup in most band sizes. I found their pricing to be excellent, and their shipping on my first order was exemplary. They adjusted the shipping on my second order after I contacted them, and it was acceptable.

Fabric Depot has a low-tech website, and you need to call or mail in your order. They're in Texas. I suggest you call, because Susan is extremely knowledgable and is very happy to help you choose just which products you need from the huge inventory she carries. She has 9 different types and weights of powernet, for example, and it's nice to have her tell you which one she thinks would work best for your project. Elastic, underwires, hook and eye tape by the yard or by the piece, bra cups, closures, etc. She also has everything you need for skating/dance/swimwear/activewear including patterns from KwikSew, Jalie, Ezi-Sew and Elan. There's a catalog available to order, but she sent a free one with my first order. They also have what they call Valu-Packs, which is fabric, elastic, lace, lining, etc. by the pound or multiple yards with several colors/styles included. Could be very handy.

Lace Heaven has lots of elastics, and some other items. The prices are very good, and I think they are sort of a close-out place, with whatever happens to be going, rather than a regular stock. For example, I got some very nice double-sided plush elastic with Natori woven into it.

Lucy's Fabrics has some elastics and stretch laces.

Needle Nook Fabrics is Anne St. Clair's site. She designed the Bra Elite patterns, and has a full selection of lingerie fabrics and findings. You must call her to order, and she is worth talking to.


Pattern School is an Australian site which has lots of information on bra pattern drafting and explanations of the why's and how's of it, as well as letting you take "the lazy way" if you don't want to do it from scratch, by entering your measurements. It will spit out a pattern for you that is said to be a good start. I haven't tried that, but it looks like it would be worth investigating. The man who owns the site, Stuart Anderson, is a swimwear designer and does custom work besides.

Sew Sassy Fabrics is another good source and they carry underwires, channeling, elastics, fabrics, etc. as well. I've ordered from them in the past and been very satisfied.


Spitzen-Paradies is an interesting site for 'eye candy' and ideas. It's all in German, which is no problem for some of you, but not so good for others of us. The Inspiration and Gallery links are especially nice, but the whole site has lots of interesting photos of different lingerie items made up in different ways.



And here are the links from Zora, with her descriptions. Thanks, Zora, these are great links!



Kantjeboord is a legendary Dutch lingerie shop. They are specialized in kits complete with lace, fabric and notions and they ship international. Mind, the website is all in Dutch.



Merckwaerdigh is a dutch lingerie pattern maker who sells patterns and notions on ebay. She speaks English and she ships international.



Sewy is a German shop with patterns for lingerie and swimwear. They also sell notions and kits complete with pattern, fabric and notions. The website is all German but Bärbel is really nice and will certainly answer English emails. Sewy patterns have a reputation for well made instructions with lots of illustrations so if you understand German, give them a try. I think Elingeria sells Sewy patterns with English instructions, but I'm not sure.



Stickgarne-Martha is an Austrian seller on ebay and she has the cheapest lingerie notions I've ever seen and mostly good quality. She's a smoker though and sometimes what she sells smells of cigarettes. I solved that problem with the help of my washing machine but if you're allergic, you better don't buy there.



Wien2002 is an Austrian shop specialized in lace and lingerie notions. A lot of the stuff is sold at bargain prices but the quality is good. Again the site is all German but Angelika ships international and is very friendly so if you find something you like, don't hesitate to email her and ask.

Bra/Panty Set

Photo Link

This time I did a set, with the bra from the same pattern copied from a Freya bra, and the panty is Stretch&Sew #2046,which appears to be OOP. I think I have enough lace and fabric left to do another pair, and I may do it.

The fabric is Shimmering Lycra in Nude Blush from Fabric Depot, and the lace is from ELingerieA. I think it all looks pretty good together. (I have to say I really like the lycra fabric color, and I think Nude Blush is a good description. The fabric itself is a little beefy and makes very nice pants. I am going to order the color swatches from Fabric Depot since there are 96 colors listed for this fabric.)

I dyed the elastics, straps, channeling, closure and cotton knit crotch lining with Rit dye in a combination of Rose and Taupe. I like the lace upper cup on the bra, and topstitching it on to the rest of the cup and then adding a scalloped border piece at the seamline makes it lay very nicely. The thing that surprised me about this bra is that the band is stretchier than the last one, and I used the same Heavy Weight Powernet (again from Fabric Depot) for both, except this one was the Nude color and the other was the White. They always say different colors of the same fabric may react differently, but this is the most obvious experience of the phenomenon that I've had.

One thing that happens to me with RTW bras is that at the beginning, the length of the underwire is just right, then after a wearing or two, suddenly I have 1/2" or more of excess length in the channeling, and I end up pushing the wire away from CF and stitching at CF to keep it immobile. This works fine, but seems silly, and if I don't secure it, it pokes me. I ordered 2 different lengths of underwires and have been using the longer ones. When I went to insert it into this bra, it absolutely was too long, so I used the shorter one, which isn't really very much shorter. After a wearing or two, suddenly I needed a longer underwire. Very strange. I will make sure next time that I use the longer one and make it fit since apparently that's what I really need anyway. Here's a close up of just the bra.


Photo Link

Marble Cake

Link

I just thought this was kind of a pretty cake, although the inside isn't really very marbled. The top is pretty though, and it tastes just fine.

I dyed some lingerie findings today, but no other sewing progress, at least not yet. The night is young?

Another Bra

Click for Larger Image

I have finished another bra, and this one is a keeper. It's made with the first kit I got from ELingeriA, and everything except the upper cup piece is lined with powernet. I have to say that this is a real success in my eyes. It's supportive, comfortable in the extreme, and not bad looking, either. I've learned a few things between doing two versions now, and will once again make a few changes in the next model. I'm planning to do one more before I cut into the gorgeous orange kit fabrics. Thank you Sigrid for the warning about the lace. I'll watch it.


Click for Larger Image

I wish there was a way to show the shape of it without having to model it, but I don't think there is. You'll just have to imagine it.

The one I cut out this afternoon is a nude color except the top cup pieces will be pink/nude lace. It seems to me that in a way it's easier to do a bra with lace because the lace itself hides a lot of construction stuff that otherwise would be very obvious. Even the patterned fabric of this bra shows the seaming, etc. much more clearly than the lace version I did first. Lining the cups with powernet is absolutely essential for me, but it does make the seam allowances much thicker and more obvious. I used kind of a burrito method to seam this, as the Sewy instructions showed, and while it gives a nice smooth finish on top and inside the cup, it does throw all of the SAs to the same side and in the same spot. Not a real problem, except where all of the cup pieces come together. I'm not happy with that particular spot on one cup, and I'm thinking of what I can do to improve it this time. I think applying the lace on top of the joined lower and side cups rather than using a normal seam will work, and should make a much flatter seam area. I'm going to try it anyway.

NancyK asked what bra pattern I ended up using. It's a copy of a bra I have, a Rio by Freya. I used a pin and tracing paper to stab along the seam lines to copy the various pieces. Not high tech, but it works, and I have to say that it was nice knowing that at least the fit should be something I could expect to match the original, and it is. So, if you have a bra you like that is copy-able, it's something to try. One thing about this one that I think made success more likely is that it does NOT have stretchy cups.

Thank you all for the very nice comments on my new fabrics. I'm sure it will be a while before any finished article from any of the pieces shows up here, but in time, they will.

Quite The Haul

This morning, the UPS man came, and about a half hour later, the mailman came. Both of them had nice things for me. The fabric I ordered from the Elliott Berman sale came first, and is it wonderful. I've never ordered anything from them that wasn't awfully nice, and I have to say that the first two pieces here exceeded my wildest expectations, and the next two are perfectly wonderful too. The cotton is very nice, but not spectacularly unique like the others, which is fine. I already have plans for some of these pieces and not yet for others, but they're all very welcome.

All the photos have a link underneath them to get you to a larger image, and if you want to see them in their true glory, use the Original size when you get to the photo site.


Gold & Peach Houndstooth
Right now I'm thinking of this for a really frivolous evening coat or spring coat. Spring is about over, but there's always next Spring.


Framed Jacquard with Floral Print
Not sure exactly what, but I think a dressy jacket of some sort. It's just so gorgeous, with a different jacquard pattern in each square, the woven framework, and the gorgeous painterly print in the squares. What's not to like?

Embroidered Jacquard Silk
I originally planned a skirt, but after receiving the fabric, I'm re-thinking it. It's such a tissue-y feeling fabric, very light and yet with body, almost like a gazar, and although it would be great as a skirt, I'm thinking of something unstructured to take advantage of the great hand of the fabric.


Floral Silk Crepe
A beautiful blouse is going to be the end point for this fabric.


Embroidered Citrus Cotton
Either a sundress or a blouse, probably the latter. It's an interesting fabric with the shirred effect between some of the embroidered rows, and I think it could be very nice.

So, that's it for fabric. Meanwhile, the mailman brought me a package from ELingeriA, and also some bobbins and presser feet. No photos of the latter, but here's a bra kit still in the package. The lace you see on top is for the top layer, with orange tricot and matching elastic, straps, etc.


Bra Kit

I also ordered some extra findings, including printed elastic (called Fern) and a plain elastic to match, as well as channeling, closures and underwires.

Elastic & Findings

It's a good thing it came today. Last night I was sewing on the first kit I got from them, and I'm at the point where I am ready to attach the channeling, and I'd used it up on my trial run. Voila, now I can return to working on it. I think it's going pretty well, but as always, it's hard to tell until it's done. I'm using powernet on the lower- and side-cups as well as the band, so we shall see. It's definitely beefier than the first one, which was almost delicate in comparison, and I'm hoping it will be much more supportive. I think it almost has to be.

No-Pressure Sewing

Photo Link

Yes, I'm making boxer shorts for Pearle again. I made one pair several years ago, which he promptly told me he didn't care for, and I was not insulted, just happy to have more "me" sewing time. Suddenly he decided he liked them. Of course, I had tossed the pattern at least a year ago. I really wasn't that crazy about the pattern, and now it's no longer available anyway. It was a Vogue pattern, and when I looked, I noticed that NONE of the Big4 currently has a pattern for real boxer shorts. They're all "unisex shorts" which means no fly. Much easier to sew of course, but naturally, it's a no-go around here. I looked on PatternReview, as I knew there was a popular boxer pattern, and ordered the Jalie 2326which has good reviews. It has one view with a CB seam, and one without. I did the version without, as per request, and it was really very simple. As I said, no pressure, and it was very relaxing to sew.

I used a cotton lawn fabric from FFC. It's one of the things I got on their sale a couple weeks ago. I ordered 4 different lawn fabrics for shorts, 3 prints and one plain. I might as well enjoy making them. Lawn is not particularly hard wearing, but it's really soft right from the start, which was my criterion.

About half-way through, Pearle mentioned that he wanted a waistband which opened at the front as well as the fly, but after further questioning, I found he just wanted some adjustability and had a preference for a drawstring. I used elastic in the back and up to 2" each side of the side seam on the front, and stitched the drawstring to the ends of the elastic and ran it through a couple buttonholes in the front. I haven't received a verdict yet on these, and I can see a few things that may be changed before I do any more. I did use one of my machine's bartack stitches at the bottom of the fly, and again just above the side vents.

Here's a close up of the fly.

Photo Link

In non-men's sewing news, I got in on the big Elliott Berman birthday sale the other day, and now I'm eagerly awaiting my package. I think I was somewhat circumspect, but I have some wonderful things coming!

I'm also waiting for another package from ELingerieA, which should arrive shortly. Then I will be making another bra and maybe some panties to match. I am not planning to make pants to match the first bra since they would be see-through. Not exactly my style.

Thank you all for the encouraging comments on my bra. There were also a couple questions about my bra that I thought I'd try to answer.

Anne asked if it was awfully expensive to order from ELingerieA since they're in Germany. I would have to say that it depends. Their prices translate into dollars very well, and often beat US sources, and they have lovely things. The shipping on my first package was extremely reasonable. I queried the S&H on the second, as it seemed much higher, and they adjusted it so it was very acceptable. So, don't ignore sources without checking. There's a lot of variation.

KarenDee asked if this bra has the same uplifting properties as a RTW bra. I have to say that this particular bra does not, but I know why. The band is stretchier than I thought it would be, and so it's too big around for really good support. The straps should be wider too, but I had these on hand, so I just used them. Other than that, it's pretty good, and if I change the items I've mentioned, I think it will be very good, and at least as good as the bra I've copied. As far as I can tell, the uplift is mainly due to a combination of the band being the correct size (pretty snug) and the cups having enough seaming, and its being in the correct places. I'm sure the 'correct' places are different for everyone and depend on our own shape, so trial and error would seem to be necessary. I'd say get a pattern that's as similar as possible to a bra you like, or trace that bra.

A Spring Luncheon with a Basket Dessert

Photo Link
I hosted one of my music clubs today, and I wanted a festive dessert. Since it's almost Easter, it had to be a basket. Everyone thought this was really darling, and it was quite easy to put together.

I used a slice of orange loaf cake (pound cake would work equally well) with whipped cream on the top, shaped into a nest. Cut a piece of curling ribbon 4"-5" long and tuck the ends into the whipped cream. Add a few eggs (jellybeans) to the nest, and you're done.

Here's what they got for lunch. Chicken salad with poppy seeds and grapes, carrot fingers, snack stick crackers, and mixed berries.



It was a nice menu to serve to a group since most everything could be done ahead. I did make up the desserts right before serving.

Happy Spring, everyone!

I'll Never Sew One of Those

I seem to be the most adamant that I'm never going to do something right before I go ahead and do it. I think I must be giving my arguments the last bit of oomph I can before I give in. This seems to happen with styles I said I'd never wear mostly, and things of that sort.

So, I've said for years that I was not interested in sewing bras. I've made lots of lingerie items, but never a bra. Sigrid's been sewing lovely bras for quite a while now, and I keep looking at them and appreciating them without feeling the need to emulate her activities. Until now. I got help finding my correct size through a fitting thread on Stitcher's Guild, and then realized that all the bra patterns readily available do not come in my size anyway. Sigrid mentioned ELingerieA, a German site, and their Sewy patterns which come in a much wider range of cup sizes. It seemed like a definite possibility. I ordered a pattern and a kit from them, and was very satisfied with the products and service.

I traced the pattern and thought I'd better tape the paper cup pieces together to see if it was going to be pretty close. Well, not even near, so I decided to just trace the pieces for a bra I have. I was very glad to have the instructions from Sewy though, as there are some tricky points that I'm not sure I would have figured out. I also used the bra I copied to make some operations clear.

Since this was a first trial, I used some fabric I already had instead of the kit fabric I ordered. I used a remnant of all-over lace in cream, and backed it with a 15 denier tricot in lavender that I bought years ago with plans to make a robe. I placed the stretchy grain of the lace perpendicular to the stretch of the tricot, negating the stretch, which is what I wanted. I had a scrap of powernet to use for the back pieces, and the scrap I had was so small I had to piece it, which worked okay, but is not as pretty as it could be.

Since the fabric is fairly sheer, I'm doing 'flat' photos only. I can hardly wait to try another one! I can see why Sigrid says this is addictive.


Link to All Photos

You can see where I pieced the powernet on the back piece.


Close up of the cup and underwire placement.

Knitting for Others

Photo Link

Our neighbors will soon have a new baby girl, and I am very pleased to have finished this little sweater before she arrives. It has been a long time since I did any baby knitting, and it was fun. Talk about instant gratification. This pattern is the Seamless Yoked Baby Sweater by Carole Barenys. I saw this on Ravelry, and I really liked one version with ruffled edges, so I did that too. I used an easy-care acrylic yarn, Red Heart Ltd. Baby Econo in Sweet Dreams. The buttons are from my stash. I have LOTS of pink buttons.

I've also been working on my nephew's Xmas sweater, the Drops Cabled Pullover 59-6. I wondered how fast the pattern stitches would come back to me since I made 2 of these in 2007. Well, pretty fast. It's not really a complex pattern anyway, but it's nice to be able to do a few rows without looking at the pattern. Here's my progress so far.


Photo Link

I've been busy getting a new computer up and going, and it's finally about the way I want it. I still have some basic things to work out and programs to add, but it's definitely usable. The biggest headache so far was getting hooked onto our new wireless network. My brother finally suggested that I call the router company, and they got me going pretty quickly. Not sure what was wrong, and their explanation of what was wrong and what they did do not seem to "compute" to me, but whatever. I'm just happy it's running. It's fun to have a laptop. Now all I need to do is get everything transferred to this computer, give him his loaner back, get our old desktop repaired and running, and I'll be all set. It's no longer an urgent project at this point, so that helps.

I ended up doing an emergency pond cleaning tonight. One of the ponds had a filter that got out of whack tonight right when I was ready to start dinner so I could go to Sewing Guild. I ran out and quickly re-did it all, added bacteria, and crossed my fingers that it would be cleared up tomorrow or so. The only good thing about having it happen tonight is that it was warm, about 60, and anytime I have emergency pond work when it's above freezing and the sun is still up, it's a plus. Pond emergencies don't happen often, but they always seem like a big deal. I do think the ponds and the lovely fish and all the birds and wildlife they attract throughout the year are worth all the work, and really, once they're up and running, they're pretty self-regulating for the most part.

Oh, and my Marfy patterns came last week! Excitement. Now I need to make a plan.

Polka-Dot Stripes on a Windy Day

Last night I decided to make up a quick knit top from some cute fabric I'd just gotten, and this is the result. As you can tell, it was windy while I was out taking photos. This is why I love hairspray, but it doesn't always do the trick.


Link to Photo

As usual when starting a project a little too late at night, there were some strange twists with this one. I used the top pattern from the FSG #1960 Twinset Pattern, and decided to try an unsewn dart this time. I'm not sure that was a success, but it's acceptable for casual wear I suppose. The really "interesting" thing I did was to add 1/4" SAs to the pattern, meanwhile forgetting that it includes 5/8" SAs already. I ended up redoing the seams, as it was very shapeless at 1/4".

I added a small yoke to the front and ran the fabric crosswise there to take advantage of the stripes. The neckband was cut on the bias, but in places it still lines up with the stripes on the front, so I'm not sure it was a complete success there. Generally I'm happy with this, although I will go back to darts in my next tee.

I ordered yarn from Elann.com the other day and it always comes so quickly. I got a full bag of Needful Yarns Geranium in a colorway very similar to the photo.
and also some Adriafil Fruttamix in Summer Shower.
I just couldn't resist the summery look of them.

I finished the knitting on the baby sweater and need to block, sew on buttons, hide yarn ends, etc., and I'll be done. It's kind of cute, and although it looks kind of big to me, it matches the measurements given, so I'm hoping it will be all right.

Since it's done, I've gone back to Alex's sweater and have finished the ribbing and am just establishing the pattern stitches. Now the fun should begin.

Fisher Skirt

Link to All Photos

I finished Onion's Fisher Skirt, and while I like it, I don't think it's by any means my best style. It's interesting, fun to wear and terribly comfortable. It's somewhat ungainly at the top where the flange folds over the tied belt, and I cannot for the life of me figure out something flattering to wear as a top with it. I think I'm too rounded for this style. I tried belting it at the hip rather than the waist, and I didn't care for it. I'm not sure this will see the light of day very often, but it was fun to make. I keep thinking it would be a great gardening skirt...



I used a fabric which purports to be wool, and may even be wool or partially wool. I love the interesting texture, but as I noted previously, it wasn't going to show the seaming without emphasis, and that's what the topstitching is meant to provide.


Click here for a better view of the stitching.

I've been working on Alex's Drops Cabled Sweater some and am up to about 2" of ribbing so far. Another 3/4" and I can begin on the pattern stitches. But, I am going to quit for a bit and work on a baby sweater which needs to be done sometime in April. Not by the first, I hope.


I'll finish with the first crocus of the year. I saw them a couple days ago, but never remembered to take the camera out and take a picture. Aren't they cheery?

Skirt Progress

The skirt is coming along nicely, if not quite as I expected. I made the longer version which turns out to be about ankle length before hemming, and I'm pretty tall, so that surprised me a lot. The fabric I'm using has a lot of surface texture, and I realized that the interesting seaming wasn't going to show at all. I tested some piping, but I didn't like it. I don't want to emphasize the black, and I thought a printed piping would be interesting, and would go well with a Japanese style, but I didn't like that either. I ended up using decorative stitching on the seams, using a variegated cotton thread. I like it, but it's still pretty subtle. I tried on the skirt tonight before finishing up the last seam, the hem, etc., and I tried pinning up the hem to different lengths, and what really is looking good to me is giving it a very avant-garde hem treatment. I pinned a few places and it gives it a bit of a bubble skirt look but much more casual. I unpinned it all to be able to finish the last seam, etc., so we'll see if I can replicate it after that. I'm kind of excited about it.

I've also begun knitting on Alex's sweater. I'm about an inch and a half into the ribbing so far.

Bendigo Yarn is Here

Photo Link
The yarn I ordered for my nephew's Xmas sweater came today. All the way from Australia in only about 2 weeks. I chose the yarn, Bendigo Rustic, and he chose the color so it should be just right. I thought blue would probably be the color for him, but there were 6 different blues, plus some blue/purple colors as well, so I thought he'd better choose.

Since I was ordering anyway, I also ordered the pink wool you see. You can never go wrong with pink! When I saw it I remembered that I need to make a baby sweater for our neighbor who is expecting, and since it's to be a girl, pink would be perfect. This color would be great, but I think I should probably get a softer baby yarn instead. I need to start on it fairly soon, so I'd better decide.

I've just begun working on a skirt from Onion Patterns. It's the Fisher Skirt, and it's one of the few Onion patterns that do not come with an English translation of the Danish instructions.

It's not a terribly complicated skirt by any means, but it's unsettling to have no idea what is written. I've worked with lots of German, French and Italian patterns, and from my voice studies, I have a pretty good working knowledge of these languages, and dictionaries at hand as well. Danish is another matter entirely. Luckily, I found some very nice people at Stitcher's Guild who were willing and able to help me. I cut the pieces tonight, and will see if I have time to begin sewing tomorrow. I'm using a black and white wool with an interesting weave that I got on a Fabric Garage Sale from the Hillestad Gallery Friends. There are always interesting things there, and I'm glad to find a good use for this.

I was going to try to answer a question from stillpatrice about the little embroidered tag I put on my pajamas. It was stitched on a Pfaff 2144/2170 on grosgrain ribbon, without the embroidery unit. No special technique, but some finger manipulation after the stitching and then a lot of pressing.


gwensews had such an interesting idea for the gray scarf. She suggested that I try some paintsticks or something to change the color. I do have paintsticks, and I'd like to try this. I have quite a bit left that I can test techniques on, and I think this could be very exciting. Thank you, Gwen!


Finally, I am very excited that Caroline has tagged me with the Sisterhood blog award. Thank you, Caroline! I'm thrilled to be your sister.

Pink Pajamas and A Scarf

All Pajama Photos

I finished the second pair of pajamas, this one for me. I used a cotton batik-type fabric and hot pink thread for the details. I used a scalloped feather stitch on both sides of the buttonholes on the placket, which I think is kind of fun.



The pockets on the pants are the little gathered patch pockets from the
Marfy cape I made last winter.
The pockets were the reason I loved that pattern, and I immediately thought of them when I needed pockets.


I did a very fast label by doing alphabet stitching on grosgrain ribbon. Not the best base, but it was the perfect color. I stitched it onto the right side of the placket just below the last button.



The color was very hard to photograph accurately for some reason, but in the photo below with the scarf, it's about as true as any of them.


Scarf Photos

The gray scarf is what I began as a sample for my hand-rolled-hem demonstration. It's a crinkled chiffon and I used silk thread to stitch the hem. It's about 40" square, and I'm thinking of selling it at the Mu Phi Fundraiser this fall since it's really not my color. I have about 2 yards of the fabric left, and thought a blouse with the scarf would be fun, but I am wondering why I chose this color. I guess it was good that I had no qualms in cutting up some of it for practice squares for the demonstration attendees.

Marfy 1640 Top Finished

Photo Link

We have 4" of snow on the ground, and I just finished a thin, summery top. I'm not usually this far ahead of the season, but it's getting close to time to order Marfy patterns from the new catalog, and I thought I'd better get with it and use one of the ones I already had that I hadn't tried yet. I'm very pleased that I did as I think it turned out quite well.

I was procrastinating on this because I needed to do a major FBA on it, and I was worried about the empire seam being unflattering anyway. Luckily, I decided to do a muslin-method to alter the pattern, and it turned out well. It gave me more of a real look at what the final effect of the changes would be than a flat pattern alteration.


You can see the lines of the pattern here. I ended up adding width to the Side-Front panel at the bustline, and at the CF. I added quite a bit of length as well, which would happen automatically with a regular FBA. Since I added width at the bustline at the side-front/front seamline, I needed to add width to the Side-Back panel too. I ended up taking some of the hip room out again, but only on the right side.

You can see the side and back views below.


Photo Link


Photo Link

The trickiest part of the construction was the neckline. They only give you a pattern piece for a ribbon to run through the casing, but I knew as soon as I saw it that it was going to need more than that to hold its shape, etc. I used 1" elastic which I secured to the back of the casing only at each end. I then ran 1 1/2" satin ribbon, doubled at the ends, through the casing over the elastic, and secured it invisibly through all layers. I may yet stitch the sides of the doubled ribbon together to make it work as a single layer, but I thought I'd try this first, as the stitching may make it stiff.

The buttons on the pockets and under the tabs are sewn on with backer buttons for strength. I can't imagine I'll ever be unbuttoning them, although they're perfectly functional. I did skip the tiny pocket bags under the tabs.


Photo Link

Summer Sewing in the Snow

Yes, it's snowing here, and not just a little bit.

I'm just about done with the Marfy #1640 blouse I started recently. I just need to hem it, sew on a couple more buttons and do a few finishing touches. Here's a close-up of the pocket, flap and tab on one side. I think all the details turned out really cute.

Originally I thought I'd have to leave some of the details off, but with my lowered empire seam, it worked out perfectly. The fabric is a very light voile I got from FabricMart last year. I think it's perfect for this design. The print is very large scale and abstract, and there's no question of needing to match it, which makes it all kind of fun and spontaneous.





Photo Link
You may remember the cabled sweaters I knitted for my brother and one nephew for Christmas 2 years ago, using a pattern from Drops. I am now ready to knit one for the older nephew. I didn't want to do his until he was a little older because he was close to 'growth spurt age' and I wanted this to be wearable for more than a year or two. He's going to get a somewhat oversized sweater anyway, but he'll soon grow into it, I'm sure. Boys don't generally mind wearing things that are a little big anyway. He chose the color, Delta in the same wool I used before, Bendigo's Rustic. Lovely yarn, and I ordered it yesterday. I'll be interested to see how soon it comes because they generally send things very, very quickly.

Fit, or Lack of It

I've been following the Fall 2009 RTW shows, and in general I haven't been too thrilled by much of what I've seen. There are a few things I like, but nothing overwhelming. I was looking at a trend report this morning on how the one-shoulder trend seems to be growing, and I saw this close-up of a Calvin Klein look. I was kind of surprised by the big fold in the front where the piece doesn't fit the model at all. It doesn't really look like it is some great design element either, just a poor fit fold. It may have fallen down from where it's supposed to sit on the strapless side, but that's still poor fit.


I don't know that the full length photo makes it much better.


I've always felt like Calvin Klein depended on having very flat-chested, boyish-figured models as there's not much shaping in evidence, and the people you see successfully wearing the designs generally seem to be that body type.

I did like the L'Wren Scott show. Nice, wearable things; mainly dresses, and mainly with sleeves, which seemed very fresh and very ladylike, especially after the years of sleeveless things shown for winter. Here are a few of her dresses.


Dresses are looking very good to me all of a sudden.

I did one of 3 mini-seminars at the local Sewing Guild meeting on Monday. I showed how to do a hand-rolled hem, (the other seminars were on Hand-Picked Zippers and Tailors Invisible Hems) and I provided little chiffon rectangles prepared with machine stitching on the edges so everyone could try it out. They brought their own needle and thread and shears. It turned out to be fun, and I had decided that instead of doing a swatch with the group, I might as well do an actual scarf, and I am still working on finishing it. It's close to half done, and is a pale gray lengthwise-crinkled chiffon with a tiny dot floral print. The lengthwise edges are harder to roll than the ones that go across the grain/crinkles, which surprised me. Not a big problem, but it just takes more determination. It's nice handwork when I'm just sitting around. I suggested to the group that scarves done this way are a great gift idea.

I gave up on the sweater vest. It's the first thing I've just pitched for a very long time. It was too short, and to make it longer in the way it needed to be longer, I would have had to rip most of it back. I think it should have been done in a much drapier yarn, and so it would have only been marginally good had it been longer. I decided to cut my losses and just give it to the Salvation Army. It will work for someone, just not me. I also think if you're planning to make this, and it is a very nice pattern, you should leave the bobbles off on the back. It just looks kind of silly having all those bumps in the back. I had even found something that looked good under it. A fine-gauge men's polo sweater in cream with a CF zipper about 10" long. Maybe I'll find something else I like over it.

I've also been working on a semi-muslin of a Marfy pattern from last spring. It's been an interesting challenge to do a FBA on it. I didn't do a flat-pattern version, but made a muslin and slashed and spread it. One thing that happened was that the underbust seam is lower on my version, which I think I like a lot, as empire lines give me the shelf effect a lot of the time. I need to figure out what to use for the ribbon/tie next. For the blouse itself I'm using a very thin, printed voile and it looks and feels so summery. I think I'm tired of winter. It's going to be 60F today, but then it's supposed to snow again tonight.

An ORANGE Purse

I'm not really shouting at you, but this purse is really orange, and it's really big, too.



I don't think I've ever had an orange bag calling my name before, but this one did.



I just happened to run across a nice purse organizer insert on Monday and bought it figuring it would come in handy. Yesterday, it came in handy. I'm not sure there won't be days when this bag seems a little too 'out there' but for now, it's just what I want.

I finished knitting the Filati vest and did all the finishing on it. It's nice, but I have decided that it needs a little tweaking, and I'm going to try to pick up some stitches and add to the length. I'm hoping it will be a success, but you never know. If it never sees the light of day, it will mean either that it wasn't a success, or that I never got it done. Oh well. I think a drapey yarn would have been a better choice, but if I can get the length it needs, that may do the trick.

Pajamas Finished

Photo Link

I finished Pearle's pajamas last night, and I am very pleased with them, except for the very silly mistake I made. Not such a big deal for pajamas, but it irritated me since I was being very careful to do this correctly, and I did it backwards and never noticed until I was ready to do the hem. Sigh. Nothing is ever perfect. He says he doesn't care and wouldn't have noticed, which is very nice. Still, I'm annoyed. In case you haven't figured it out (fond wish) I made the closure the wrong way, right over left. In all the shirts I've made for him, I've never done this before, and I suppose if I had to do it, now was a good time.

Anyway, since it was a very fun project, I'm thinking of making something similar for me. Not the same fabric, since choosing a wild, "wouldn't wear it out of the house" print is half the fun.

I made a few changes to the pattern for both shirt and pants.

Photo Link
You can see the pants here with the drawstring tied at the top, the button fly at center, and one piped hem cuff at the bottom. This fabric is hard to see details in.

They wanted you to do the fly buttonhole only through the underlayer of the top fly, so it would be a hidden button, but I thought that seemed a bit fiddly to use, and just did a buttonhole through to the top.

I used a rounded buttonhole for this set, and larger buttons than is usual on a shirt.

The waist is supposed to be elastic, but he asked for a drawstring, so I put a piece of elastic between two pieces of drawstring for more comfort.

I also did the CB with a very wide SA, as is usual for men's dress pants, so I have plenty to alter, just in case.

I stitched the CB seam up to the fold point at the top of the waist casing, and left the rest of the seam, which is folded to the inside, unstitched, but placed carefully so it lays as if stitched. This way I can easily do anything necessary to the elastic and drawstring inside. I made 2 buttonholes in the front for the drawstring ends to come out of. The drawstring is quite long, and I will probable cut it off some after a few wearings.

The hem was turned up quite wide, then tucked, with the piping slid in behind the tuck and topstitched. This saved putting on a separate band for the hem, and gives a clean finish inside.

I added a side pocket to the pattern.

Photo Link
I used no interfacing in the collar or stand, and just did my usual folded placket, which results in self-interfacing.

I trimmed the width of the SA of the piping and tucked it behind the inside edge of the placket and topstitched to hold.

The top of the pocket is piped.

The sleeves end in a separate band, with piping between. I basted the piping to the sleeve, made the band, turning in both long edges, and then topstitched it in place through all layers.

I only put 4 buttons on this shirt, and none on the stand.

All seams are either enclosed and topstitched, or stitched, serged and topstitched. I don't want to have to mend anything for a very long time.


Now you know all my secrets. It was fun to sew this with attention to small details that make things very personalized. I guess it's close enough that I can call this a Valentine's Day gift.

Pajamas & Knitting

Pearle asked me to make some pajamas for him, and this is the fabric he chose. I think it's quite neat, and I finished the pants tonight and moved on to the shirt. I'm using his regular shirt pattern, with a few modifications, and piping! The pants are from Burda WOF 12/2006. I knew I remembered that they had a men's pajama pattern some time ago, but it took me a while to find it.

The fabric is from Hancock's, and is a cotton. If you can believe it, the care instructions direct one to 'machine wash warm, line dry.' Well, I hardly think I'm going to line dry 100% cotton fabric for heaven's sake. So, I prewashed and dried, and it really didn't even wrinkle as much as I'd thought it might. I didn't measure for shrinkage, but it was only about 42" wide, and I bought 5 yards, which was just barely enough, with a creative layout.

I also started knitting a vest/top from the Fall/Winter Filati Handknitting magazine. It's an interesting pattern, and I'm done with the back and about 5" into the front. You can see the pattern photo and the pattern stitches here.

2009 Marfy Catalog

My Marfy catalog came Wednesday, and I've been carefully studying it ever since. I went through it once without marking anything, but taking note of the things that caught my eye, and why, and also of the major trends that seemed to appear. I then went through it again several times, marking likely pattern purchases as well as details to copy. I will probably whittle this list down a little bit yet, but so far this is what I'm thinking about ordering.

First are a couple of dresses that are very interesting, although they are what I'm most likely to skip ordering. They both are on my mind, though. The first one has an intriguing collar. There's also a blouse with this same effect, but on a smaller scale. I think this dress might be better with sleeves as a fall/winter dress, but this is what they are showing.

With the next dress, it's the pockets. The rest of it is fine, but I'm not sure it's really me, and without the pockets, I don't think I'd have looked twice at it, so I'm not sure I should now either, but it stays on my mind.


Of course I have to have a jacket, and I think this one is just darling with the gathering along the front, and the bands.


This duster is so charming, and I was surprised that it was the coat that caught my eye out of the whole catalog. I have quite a few coat patterns already, and even though there's a trench-style coat that I like very much, most of the coat styles aren't anything I feel I must have. I also think they have a new artist and he or she does several very odd coat collars/necklines, or else they have a lot of them that just are odd, which I doubt.


There are two skirts with similar pocket ideas. The one I don't show is more square, and would be easier to just make oneself, but this one is a little trickier. I love the way the pocket swoops on this, and it only has one seam, at CB. That reminds me of a Sandra Kelly skirt pattern I made over and over, and loved.


And finally, when I turned the page and saw this, I knew I had to have it. I've never been one to swoon over jeans-style jackets, but I love the shaped panels in this. I can see it in a pique or cotton brocade, with piping of course for a patterned fabric, or the details would be lost.

Link to All Photos