Decisions, Decisions

I got my skirt muslin altered satisfactorily, I think, and I'm going to test it in muslin one more time, but now I'm thinking about what I'm going to use for underlining for this skirt. I'm seriously thinking about using muslin, and I'm wondering if this would be a huge mistake.

The skirt fabric itself is slightly stiff, and has plenty of body. The underlining is going to provide a nicer 'bend' to the fabric when it needs it. I don't think organza is indicated at all. The skirt will have to be lined with such a non-slip underlining, but I would almost certainly have lined it anyway, so that is neither here nor there. It's no more non-slip than batiste would be, and that would be another choice. Do I need to get actual batiste, or could this be an acceptable substitute. This is a fairly thin muslin, and is a nice smooth fabric, much like sheeting, and since the entire skirt is on the bias with only the one seam, it needs to be something fairly light that can be supported mostly from the waistband alone.

I will try to post something soon on the elastic and findings dyeing I've been doing. Those who asked whether the general sewing of the things is time consuming will be glad to know that the answer is no. The panties especially are very fast, and the bras go surprisingly quickly as well.

I brought a book home from my mother's yesterday. I remember it always being in our home, and although it's promised to my sister, I brought it home to read and look through again. It's Encyclopedia of Needlework by Therese de Dillmont, published by DMC. There's no copyright date on it, but the British Library says 1907. It's just the size to put in a workbag, being about 3"x5" and almost 2" thick. Looking it over last night, I think I may have to get a reprint for myself. It has everything from plain sewing to needle and bobbin lace, tapestry, knitting, netting, just anything to do with needlework. I was very surprised to find separate instructions for handsewing buttonholes in linen and in dress materials. I like vintage sewing books, and I have a special feeling for this one.

Here's the first waterlily of the season. I was very surprised to see it as I hadn't even noticed the bud, and suddenly there was a beautiful flower.

Another Lingerie Set

I made another bra and panty set Sunday from a different pattern than I've used before. This one was copied from a ready-to-wear bra by Panache, and I think it turned out nicely. It has a horizontal top piece instead of the angled style of the Freya copy, and it gives a different look, and a little different shape I think.

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I tried several different techniques with this bra. I used a spaghetti strap attachment for the main strap, a detail that caught my eye in an advertisement, and which I've been anxious to try.

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Since I'd made a lot of spaghetti tubing to do the straps, I thought I'd use some of it as embellishment, and liked the little roses I came up with. I used one at each strap attachment point, one at CF, and one on a pair of matching panties I made.
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I used the print under the lace on the top cup piece, which gives it more stability than the lace alone. All the other pieces are lined with powernet. Although it looks like there's a wrinkle in the bridge, that disappears when it's worn.

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The 6" wide stretch lace and the brown lycra are both from my Fabric Depot bundles, and the print is something I had on hand, originally thinking I'd make a tank top or something, and I still have plenty left. It's a soft mesh knit. I dyed all the elastic, the strapping and the closure to match the main print color.

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These are the two pairs of panties I made to match this bra. I have enough stuff to make several more of one design or another. The pair on the left uses the full width of the lace, and for the the other, I trimmed the lace to about 2 1/2", or the width of one set of motifs. I still am very happy with the no-elastic look on the legs, so I'm continuing to use the style.

There are a few more photos here.

Thrills and Chills

Isn't it fun when sewing gets really exciting again? I keep plugging away, and although I always enjoy it and wouldn't quit for anything, every now and then I just get thrilled with an idea or a little progress on something, and suddenly I'm on a high with no ceiling in sight. Yesterday it happened with a skirt I'm working on.

I thought I was getting a little stuck on lingerie, and I ought to work on something else, like how about one of this season's Marfy patterns I bought? I thought I'd start with this skirt, Marfy #1949.
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I knew I was probably going to have to enlarge the pattern a little at least because most Marfy patterns have almost no ease, and I didn't want a really form-fitting skirt. Also since this pattern has only one seam, at CB, is cut on the bias, and has no dart shaping, and only one partial side seam in the pocket, a muslin was a necessity. Actually, the pattern pieces had me stymied for a while because there are so many waistband pieces. There are 6 waistband pieces. One for the front, one for left back, one for the right back, and inner pieces for each of these, so the band has a seam at the top. Then there is a front and back piece that go between the waistband and the skirt to form the pocket, and of course a pocket bag front. It's a beautifully made pattern, but it took me a while to lay it out so I could figure out what was going on. Then it seemed perfectly logical.

So, I was working on this pattern, and also trying to think about what fabric I would use. I wanted to use a plaid or check as shown in the drawing, but what? Suddenly light dawned, and I thought of a piece I got from Elliott Berman's sale, and the perfection of the combination just thrilled me.
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I had originally thought of a skirt from it, but nothing specific, and this seemed perfect. I checked, and I think I will have enough. I have about a yard and a half. Luckily, there's no matching necessary, except on the waistband if i want it there, and since there's gathering on the skirt, it won't match perfectly there anyway. I hope it's going to turn out as well as I think it could.

Meanwhile, I haven't quit on the lingerie thing either. It's almost instant gratification sewing, and mixing the colors, fabric, laces, etc. is so much fun, and unlike anything else I do. I have another set in mind, and have copied another RTW bra for a different style, so I will try that.

Jeans Again, Finally

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I've been without any jeans for quite a while now, and I've been meaning to make another pair, but just wasn't getting to it. Finally, I cut them out and sewed them up, and I don't know why I waited. They're just what I need for what I call 'wearing around', which is my main wardrobe need right now. With the gardening season truly upon us, I think these are just in time. Here's a side view.

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Nothing new, special or fancy about these. It's my usual Burda TNT pattern and I think it's actually the same denim I used in the last pair I made about 2 years ago. I bought a whole bunch of denim several years ago and used a lot of it for tractor seat covers, car seat protectors, and anything I needed a big piece of heavy fabric for. I have enough left for probably one more pair of pants, and that's about it. Unlike the last pair, I didn't put on back pockets (I don't think I ever used those pockets anyway) and I didn't do any interesting topstitching on these, where on the last pair I used variegated thread and had a good time doing it. This time I just wanted pants to wear, in a hurry. I did do my usual size zipper, with a pocket stay and side pockets on both sides.

Besides the jeans, I'm participating in Sigrid's Lingerie Sew Along, and I've made another couple pairs of panties. These are truly getting addictive.

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These are a plaid mesh knit that I've had on hand for several years, and some stretch lace from my FabricDepot collection.

Finally, here's a photo of my garden that I took yesterday.
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Camisole Set

Continuing on my lingerie-sewing kick, I did a couple more pairs of panties and a camisole. I've never found a camisole pattern I was very crazy about, but I have kept my eyes open, and finally noticed some reviews of #128 from the December, 2008 issue of Burda WOF. I traced it the other night, decided I'd try it with a size 44 in the front and a 40 in the back, a trick I use with knitting patterns a lot. It turned out nice, and although I think I may add a little length to the bodice front next time, it's pretty cute as is. Here it is with one of the pants that match it.

Photo Link It's quite a thin mesh knit print, but the color and print make it seem fairly opaque. The bodice is doubled, as per the pattern instructions. This pattern has a longer version shown as a nightgown, which could be very nice.

Here are the other 2 pairs of panties I made.
Photo Link For these two I tried a method I saw in a review of a Jalie pattern. That pattern calls for hemmed leg edges with no elastic. The reviewer left the cut edge raw for a flatter finish, and seemed to be very pleased. Nothing ventured, nothing gained, so I did two pairs this way. I can always go back and put elastic on them if I decide to. I wore one pair, and I have to say I was surprised how they stayed put, and were very comfortable, and cute, too. I'm going to give it a longer test, but so far, I think it's a success.

The stretch laces on these are all from the group I got from Fabric Depot, and I like the way they look and feel. The white/gold panty matches one of the bras I made. Part of the fun of these is thinking of small embellishments or decorations for them. Of this group of three, my favorite is the 2 small knots.

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Here are some details of the camisole including the shell-edge hem, and the bows over the strap placement.

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And here it is on me.

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Stretch Lace A-Plenty

You can get a better look at all the photos in this post by clicking on this
Link to All Photos. Choose Original size for the best detail.

These are some of my favorites out of the treasure trove of stretch laces I got from Fabric Depot when I ordered one of their Stretch Lace Value Packs (4 pounds of assorted laces) and one of their Lycra Value Packs (10 pounds of assorted color lycras.) It was quite the bargain, and I did get some color choice on the lycras. Susan offered me pastels, brights, or darks, and I said I liked muted colors, and pastels were okay but not 'baby pastels,' and I didn't want any black. I'm not picky, am I? She said she thought she could do that, and I am very pleased with what she sent. I got 9 colors of lycra, each a very usably-sized piece, in varying weights and qualities. Some satin, some matte, all very nice.


And of course the laces are just utterly fantastic! Here's a view of the whole shebang.


There are really wide pieces, up to 11", and narrow ones of 3/8" with every size in between. There are 39 individual styles and colors, with varying lengths from a couple yards up to at least 10. Plenty to make all kinds of things that I haven't even thought of yet.

And now, just to make you drool a little....




The widest pieces.


Medium-Wide Pieces.


The Narrowest Laces.

There are some of the wider laces that are going to be a challenge to find a good/worthy use for. Some of them are galloons with matching edges on both sides, some are quite wide, with the fancy part usually at one edge, or in one case, with the fancy part in the center, and different patterns on each side. That one is blue, and about 10" wide. I'm sure it was made for a specific purpose, but it isn't coming to mind right away. You can see it below, and see what you think.


One of the most unusual pieces is this piece with an oriental figure. She has a small crystal in the center of her forehead. I think this is just lovely, and since it has to be used with the edge up, I thought of a bodice for a nightgown or possibly a camisole.


I thought this was very pretty, and kind of unusual, in that it looks like it's ruffled on the edges, but it's actually just embroidered to look as if it were ruffled.


There's some really nice white mesh elastic with scalloped edges that has the name Gilly Hicks, Sydney woven in the center every so often. I hadn't heard of her, but the website was interesting. There's about 3 yards with the name, and about 10 yards plain.

I've already used a few of the laces on some panties, and it's so much fun to be able to choose just the right thing from a wide selection.

Fearless?

I don't generally do these 'blog things' but I saw this on Gaile's blog and was interested. So, here's My Word.

Your Word is "Fearless"

You see life as your one chance to experience everything, and you just go for it! You believe the biggest risk is being afraid and missing out on something amazing. Sometimes your fearlessness means you're daring. You enjoy risky activities. And sometimes your fearlessness means you're courageous. You're brave enough to do the right thing, even when it's scary.

What's Your Word?

I have to say that I don't feel very fearless, but I did say the other day that I've always felt like I could do pretty much anything I could think up. Maybe that's fearless?

Thank you all for the very sweet comments on my pink leopard set. I especially liked all the Grrr-ing.

Now It's Getting Silly - Pink Leopard

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This fabric has been in my remnant area for about 2 years. I originally used it for a Marfy tank top, and I thought it would make cute panties. I had some wide stretch lace, so I cut the 3-piece hipster pant, and used the lace for the top band. The pair on the right is this pair.

Naturally, I then began to think how cute a matching bra would be. This is definitely pretty far on the wild side for me, but since it's pink, there was no way to say no.


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I used my copied pattern, and for the different CF detail I copied a different RTW bra that had this same detail. It was fairly easy to do, as you simply cut your bridge shorter, fold the edge of the cup above the bridge to the inside, and stitch it to the channeling directly. Then put in a spacer piece.


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In wearing it seems to act just as it would if the bridge were solid all the way up. The thing I realized after I'd already begun is that the channeling and underwire would have to fold into the cup rather than away from it. I thought there would be enough stretch in the cup to make this work anyway, and by the time I realized it, I was pretty far along, so I just went ahead, and it seems to be fine.

I used double-sided plush elastic with ruffles for the straps, narrow grosgrain ribbon bows, and powernet under everything but the lace.

After I finished the bra, I thought I'd better see if I had enough fabric left for a second pair of panties. Since I was using a wide stretch lace on the hipster style, I knew I was cutting 2" off the top edge anyway, so I thought I might eke it out. I ended up with a seam at CB and a seam at the side-front that I put a small daisy trim over. I angled the seam to make it a little more 'planned' looking rather than a necessity, which is what it was.

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I haven't worn this set yet, so I can't say how it is over an entire day, but it seems to fit just the same as the others I've done, and I have to say I'm pleased with it, even if it is pretty silly. Sometimes silly is just right.

Lingerie Fabric & Findings (By Request)

I've sewn lingerie at various times over the years, and one of the most difficult things about lingerie sewing is finding the correct fabrics and especially the notions. Fabrics are much more available than notions, although some of the specialty fabrics are tough to find, too. I promised BeeBee I'd give her some elastic sources, and she suggested I put it on Stitcher's Guild so that everyone would be equally enabled, and now I've been asked by an anonymous commenter to post the information here as well.

First of all, I have a post here (linked on the sidebar) called Fabrics and Findings Source Links that gives links for many online fabric and notions sources, including lingerie sources. I've been keeping this post updated since August, 2005 as I find and try new sources. The date of the most recent editing will show at the bottom of that link list.

A little idea of what you might find at these sites is:

Elastics for lingerie are often going to be against your skin rather than encased, and what you want is the plush elastic, which has one side that's very soft. There is also strap elastic, for straps, which is stronger and less stretchy. You can find these plain or fancy, and the plush often has picots on one or both edges to give a pretty finish that peeks out. There are some with ruffles or lace on the edge(s) as well. I ordered some printed elastic too, which is very pretty. Narrow and wider stretch laces can be used in place of elastic for panties too. Styles seem to come and go, so if you see something that's unusual, you may want to snap it up as that may be all there is. Don't forget that most elastics and findings are easily dyeable.

Underwires and channeling (a pre-made casing for the underwire) used to be the sticking points if you wanted to sew bras. They just were almost impossible for the individual to find. Now they're more widely available, and all of the sites I've been looking at carry them. The sizing is now the sticking point. Some of the sites measure the length, some measure the widest point across and the depth. It's very difficult, but some sites have PDFs you can download with scans of the wires to compare to your bra or pattern. I noticed that one site, ELingerieA, sells sets of 6 pairs in different size ranges so you can pick the one closest to you and then compare a range of 6. This seems like a good idea if you're not at all sure. None of the sites have interchangeable sizing either, so that's unhandy as well.

I would also suggest that if you're even slightly unsure as to whether you're wearing the correct bra size, you check out the (long, but very worthwhile) thread on Stitcher's Guild called Bra Fitting--Expert Tips. Even if you think you're wearing the right size, you may be surprised and pleased by trying some of the tips Dotty gave us from her years as a professional fitter. I know I changed my outlook and bra size a lot after finally taking it all seriously and doing the work of finding the right size.

All of the sites seem to carry about the same categories, but they all have different products for the most part, so there's a wide variety available. Some of the sites offer kits for bras, which is handy to start with because you'll get everything (or almost) that you need to make a bra. For the kits, you will have to order underwires separately, and also powernet if you want to use it, and for larger sizes, it's really necessary.

There's a thread called Lingerie Findings and Notions on Stitcher's Guild about this very thing, as I said above, and I'm going to copy some of the info from that thread here, with the vendors in alphabetical order, except the vendors Zora noted on Stitcher's Guild are all at the end.


Bra-makers Supply is a Canadian company. They have all the supplies you'll need to make bras, undies, and other lingerie. They also have a blog with lots of info on how to do it all. They carry patterns, underwires, closures, very nice jewelry quality findings, elastics, fabrics, etc. There's a lot of help available here if you read through all of the posted information.

ELingerieA is a German site that has bra kits, underwires, channeling, all the findings for bras and panties including lots of lovely elastics. They also have different bra patterns than I've seen on other sites, with a much wider range of cup sizes. I still ended up tracing my pattern from a bra I have, but they do go up to an H cup in most band sizes. I found their pricing to be excellent, and their shipping on my first order was exemplary. They adjusted the shipping on my second order after I contacted them, and it was acceptable.

Fabric Depot has a low-tech website, and you need to call or mail in your order. They're in Texas. I suggest you call, because Susan is extremely knowledgable and is very happy to help you choose just which products you need from the huge inventory she carries. She has 9 different types and weights of powernet, for example, and it's nice to have her tell you which one she thinks would work best for your project. Elastic, underwires, hook and eye tape by the yard or by the piece, bra cups, closures, etc. She also has everything you need for skating/dance/swimwear/activewear including patterns from KwikSew, Jalie, Ezi-Sew and Elan. There's a catalog available to order, but she sent a free one with my first order. They also have what they call Valu-Packs, which is fabric, elastic, lace, lining, etc. by the pound or multiple yards with several colors/styles included. Could be very handy.

Lace Heaven has lots of elastics, and some other items. The prices are very good, and I think they are sort of a close-out place, with whatever happens to be going, rather than a regular stock. For example, I got some very nice double-sided plush elastic with Natori woven into it.

Lucy's Fabrics has some elastics and stretch laces.

Needle Nook Fabrics is Anne St. Clair's site. She designed the Bra Elite patterns, and has a full selection of lingerie fabrics and findings. You must call her to order, and she is worth talking to.


Pattern School is an Australian site which has lots of information on bra pattern drafting and explanations of the why's and how's of it, as well as letting you take "the lazy way" if you don't want to do it from scratch, by entering your measurements. It will spit out a pattern for you that is said to be a good start. I haven't tried that, but it looks like it would be worth investigating. The man who owns the site, Stuart Anderson, is a swimwear designer and does custom work besides.

Sew Sassy Fabrics is another good source and they carry underwires, channeling, elastics, fabrics, etc. as well. I've ordered from them in the past and been very satisfied.


Spitzen-Paradies is an interesting site for 'eye candy' and ideas. It's all in German, which is no problem for some of you, but not so good for others of us. The Inspiration and Gallery links are especially nice, but the whole site has lots of interesting photos of different lingerie items made up in different ways.

Bra Components is a new source (to me anyway) which will custom dye very small amounts of findings to match any Pantone color#. This would seem to be ideal when you need a very particular color match. They don't have a huge variety of styles of lace, etc., but when you're getting a custom color, that may be okay.



And here are the links from Zora, with her descriptions. Thanks, Zora, these are great links!



Kantjeboord is a legendary Dutch lingerie shop. They are specialized in kits complete with lace, fabric and notions and they ship international. Mind, the website is all in Dutch.



Merckwaerdigh is a dutch lingerie pattern maker who sells patterns and notions on ebay. She speaks English and she ships international.



Sewy is a German shop with patterns for lingerie and swimwear. They also sell notions and kits complete with pattern, fabric and notions. The website is all German but Bärbel is really nice and will certainly answer English emails. Sewy patterns have a reputation for well made instructions with lots of illustrations so if you understand German, give them a try. I think Elingeria sells Sewy patterns with English instructions, but I'm not sure.



Stickgarne-Martha is an Austrian seller on ebay and she has the cheapest lingerie notions I've ever seen and mostly good quality. She's a smoker though and sometimes what she sells smells of cigarettes. I solved that problem with the help of my washing machine but if you're allergic, you better don't buy there.



Wien2002 is an Austrian shop specialized in lace and lingerie notions. A lot of the stuff is sold at bargain prices but the quality is good. Again the site is all German but Angelika ships international and is very friendly so if you find something you like, don't hesitate to email her and ask.

Bra/Panty Set

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This time I did a set, with the bra from the same pattern copied from a Freya bra, and the panty is Stretch&Sew #2046,which appears to be OOP. I think I have enough lace and fabric left to do another pair, and I may do it.

The fabric is Shimmering Lycra in Nude Blush from Fabric Depot, and the lace is from ELingerieA. I think it all looks pretty good together. (I have to say I really like the lycra fabric color, and I think Nude Blush is a good description. The fabric itself is a little beefy and makes very nice pants. I am going to order the color swatches from Fabric Depot since there are 96 colors listed for this fabric.)

I dyed the elastics, straps, channeling, closure and cotton knit crotch lining with Rit dye in a combination of Rose and Taupe. I like the lace upper cup on the bra, and topstitching it on to the rest of the cup and then adding a scalloped border piece at the seamline makes it lay very nicely. The thing that surprised me about this bra is that the band is stretchier than the last one, and I used the same Heavy Weight Powernet (again from Fabric Depot) for both, except this one was the Nude color and the other was the White. They always say different colors of the same fabric may react differently, but this is the most obvious experience of the phenomenon that I've had.

One thing that happens to me with RTW bras is that at the beginning, the length of the underwire is just right, then after a wearing or two, suddenly I have 1/2" or more of excess length in the channeling, and I end up pushing the wire away from CF and stitching at CF to keep it immobile. This works fine, but seems silly, and if I don't secure it, it pokes me. I ordered 2 different lengths of underwires and have been using the longer ones. When I went to insert it into this bra, it absolutely was too long, so I used the shorter one, which isn't really very much shorter. After a wearing or two, suddenly I needed a longer underwire. Very strange. I will make sure next time that I use the longer one and make it fit since apparently that's what I really need anyway. Here's a close up of just the bra.


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Marble Cake

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I just thought this was kind of a pretty cake, although the inside isn't really very marbled. The top is pretty though, and it tastes just fine.

I dyed some lingerie findings today, but no other sewing progress, at least not yet. The night is young?

Another Bra

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I have finished another bra, and this one is a keeper. It's made with the first kit I got from ELingeriA, and everything except the upper cup piece is lined with powernet. I have to say that this is a real success in my eyes. It's supportive, comfortable in the extreme, and not bad looking, either. I've learned a few things between doing two versions now, and will once again make a few changes in the next model. I'm planning to do one more before I cut into the gorgeous orange kit fabrics. Thank you Sigrid for the warning about the lace. I'll watch it.


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I wish there was a way to show the shape of it without having to model it, but I don't think there is. You'll just have to imagine it.

The one I cut out this afternoon is a nude color except the top cup pieces will be pink/nude lace. It seems to me that in a way it's easier to do a bra with lace because the lace itself hides a lot of construction stuff that otherwise would be very obvious. Even the patterned fabric of this bra shows the seaming, etc. much more clearly than the lace version I did first. Lining the cups with powernet is absolutely essential for me, but it does make the seam allowances much thicker and more obvious. I used kind of a burrito method to seam this, as the Sewy instructions showed, and while it gives a nice smooth finish on top and inside the cup, it does throw all of the SAs to the same side and in the same spot. Not a real problem, except where all of the cup pieces come together. I'm not happy with that particular spot on one cup, and I'm thinking of what I can do to improve it this time. I think applying the lace on top of the joined lower and side cups rather than using a normal seam will work, and should make a much flatter seam area. I'm going to try it anyway.

NancyK asked what bra pattern I ended up using. It's a copy of a bra I have, a Rio by Freya. I used a pin and tracing paper to stab along the seam lines to copy the various pieces. Not high tech, but it works, and I have to say that it was nice knowing that at least the fit should be something I could expect to match the original, and it is. So, if you have a bra you like that is copy-able, it's something to try. One thing about this one that I think made success more likely is that it does NOT have stretchy cups.

Thank you all for the very nice comments on my new fabrics. I'm sure it will be a while before any finished article from any of the pieces shows up here, but in time, they will.

Quite The Haul

This morning, the UPS man came, and about a half hour later, the mailman came. Both of them had nice things for me. The fabric I ordered from the Elliott Berman sale came first, and is it wonderful. I've never ordered anything from them that wasn't awfully nice, and I have to say that the first two pieces here exceeded my wildest expectations, and the next two are perfectly wonderful too. The cotton is very nice, but not spectacularly unique like the others, which is fine. I already have plans for some of these pieces and not yet for others, but they're all very welcome.

All the photos have a link underneath them to get you to a larger image, and if you want to see them in their true glory, use the Original size when you get to the photo site.


Gold & Peach Houndstooth
Right now I'm thinking of this for a really frivolous evening coat or spring coat. Spring is about over, but there's always next Spring.


Framed Jacquard with Floral Print
Not sure exactly what, but I think a dressy jacket of some sort. It's just so gorgeous, with a different jacquard pattern in each square, the woven framework, and the gorgeous painterly print in the squares. What's not to like?

Embroidered Jacquard Silk
I originally planned a skirt, but after receiving the fabric, I'm re-thinking it. It's such a tissue-y feeling fabric, very light and yet with body, almost like a gazar, and although it would be great as a skirt, I'm thinking of something unstructured to take advantage of the great hand of the fabric.


Floral Silk Crepe
A beautiful blouse is going to be the end point for this fabric.


Embroidered Citrus Cotton
Either a sundress or a blouse, probably the latter. It's an interesting fabric with the shirred effect between some of the embroidered rows, and I think it could be very nice.

So, that's it for fabric. Meanwhile, the mailman brought me a package from ELingeriA, and also some bobbins and presser feet. No photos of the latter, but here's a bra kit still in the package. The lace you see on top is for the top layer, with orange tricot and matching elastic, straps, etc.


Bra Kit

I also ordered some extra findings, including printed elastic (called Fern) and a plain elastic to match, as well as channeling, closures and underwires.

Elastic & Findings

It's a good thing it came today. Last night I was sewing on the first kit I got from them, and I'm at the point where I am ready to attach the channeling, and I'd used it up on my trial run. Voila, now I can return to working on it. I think it's going pretty well, but as always, it's hard to tell until it's done. I'm using powernet on the lower- and side-cups as well as the band, so we shall see. It's definitely beefier than the first one, which was almost delicate in comparison, and I'm hoping it will be much more supportive. I think it almost has to be.

No-Pressure Sewing

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Yes, I'm making boxer shorts for Pearle again. I made one pair several years ago, which he promptly told me he didn't care for, and I was not insulted, just happy to have more "me" sewing time. Suddenly he decided he liked them. Of course, I had tossed the pattern at least a year ago. I really wasn't that crazy about the pattern, and now it's no longer available anyway. It was a Vogue pattern, and when I looked, I noticed that NONE of the Big4 currently has a pattern for real boxer shorts. They're all "unisex shorts" which means no fly. Much easier to sew of course, but naturally, it's a no-go around here. I looked on PatternReview, as I knew there was a popular boxer pattern, and ordered the Jalie 2326which has good reviews. It has one view with a CB seam, and one without. I did the version without, as per request, and it was really very simple. As I said, no pressure, and it was very relaxing to sew.

I used a cotton lawn fabric from FFC. It's one of the things I got on their sale a couple weeks ago. I ordered 4 different lawn fabrics for shorts, 3 prints and one plain. I might as well enjoy making them. Lawn is not particularly hard wearing, but it's really soft right from the start, which was my criterion.

About half-way through, Pearle mentioned that he wanted a waistband which opened at the front as well as the fly, but after further questioning, I found he just wanted some adjustability and had a preference for a drawstring. I used elastic in the back and up to 2" each side of the side seam on the front, and stitched the drawstring to the ends of the elastic and ran it through a couple buttonholes in the front. I haven't received a verdict yet on these, and I can see a few things that may be changed before I do any more. I did use one of my machine's bartack stitches at the bottom of the fly, and again just above the side vents.

Here's a close up of the fly.

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In non-men's sewing news, I got in on the big Elliott Berman birthday sale the other day, and now I'm eagerly awaiting my package. I think I was somewhat circumspect, but I have some wonderful things coming!

I'm also waiting for another package from ELingerieA, which should arrive shortly. Then I will be making another bra and maybe some panties to match. I am not planning to make pants to match the first bra since they would be see-through. Not exactly my style.

Thank you all for the encouraging comments on my bra. There were also a couple questions about my bra that I thought I'd try to answer.

Anne asked if it was awfully expensive to order from ELingerieA since they're in Germany. I would have to say that it depends. Their prices translate into dollars very well, and often beat US sources, and they have lovely things. The shipping on my first package was extremely reasonable. I queried the S&H on the second, as it seemed much higher, and they adjusted it so it was very acceptable. So, don't ignore sources without checking. There's a lot of variation.

KarenDee asked if this bra has the same uplifting properties as a RTW bra. I have to say that this particular bra does not, but I know why. The band is stretchier than I thought it would be, and so it's too big around for really good support. The straps should be wider too, but I had these on hand, so I just used them. Other than that, it's pretty good, and if I change the items I've mentioned, I think it will be very good, and at least as good as the bra I've copied. As far as I can tell, the uplift is mainly due to a combination of the band being the correct size (pretty snug) and the cups having enough seaming, and its being in the correct places. I'm sure the 'correct' places are different for everyone and depend on our own shape, so trial and error would seem to be necessary. I'd say get a pattern that's as similar as possible to a bra you like, or trace that bra.

A Spring Luncheon with a Basket Dessert

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I hosted one of my music clubs today, and I wanted a festive dessert. Since it's almost Easter, it had to be a basket. Everyone thought this was really darling, and it was quite easy to put together.

I used a slice of orange loaf cake (pound cake would work equally well) with whipped cream on the top, shaped into a nest. Cut a piece of curling ribbon 4"-5" long and tuck the ends into the whipped cream. Add a few eggs (jellybeans) to the nest, and you're done.

Here's what they got for lunch. Chicken salad with poppy seeds and grapes, carrot fingers, snack stick crackers, and mixed berries.



It was a nice menu to serve to a group since most everything could be done ahead. I did make up the desserts right before serving.

Happy Spring, everyone!