Wednesday, June 25, 2008

Coat Muslin

Well, I've pretty well finished the coat muslin on The Great Coat Sew-Along. I haven't heard from Marji on her opinion of it since I got the sleeves in and the collar on. We had thought it might be too big in the back, and I tried narrowing it a bit. It was not good that way. I think the cashmere is going to hang differently enough from the muslin that the center back won't fold as it is now. I think it will look rather luxurious and nicely full. I hope so anyway. Pearle had a good point as well, which was that since this was going to be kind of a special coat, I may want to wear it for a long time, and I may gain a pound or two at some time in the future. Heaven forbid, but I would not be terribly surprised. Even if I stay the size I am now, I like the way it feels and looks. Here are the photos of the finished muslin. Now if Marji comes up with something, I'm going to try it, but for now, I'm pretty well set on this, with possible adjustment of the off-grain center front. It's swinging a little far to the side in the muslin, but you can't tell what will happen in the actual fabric, which is thicker and heavier. And as Roberta Carr says, you can always cut it off and you're right back where you started, no harm, no foul.

More Muslin Photos

These are taken with only a blouse underneath. You can see it with a suit jacket underneath, without sleeves at the Link above. The other photos with sleeves are with the back narrowed, which I don't like.

My fabric is on its way, and when it comes I'm going to work on deciding what underlining and lining, etc. I will use. I don't think I have any silk that I'll want to use for the lining, but I want to see how a few prints I have look with the cashmere. I'm not sure I have enough of any of them either, but I can see.


Anonymous said...

I'm interested in your "off-grain" addition to the CF. I can see why you are doing it - but...the tailoring way of correcting a swing-apart at the hemline is to tighten the tape on the edge i.e.make it shorter. As you're using traditional methods and will be taping then I think you'll find this better - and it'll take away some of that extra fulness at the front.
If you already know this, or have been taught it elsewhere, my apologies.

Nancy K said...

I adjusted my muslin for walking ease and I was surprised by how much wider R. Carr's amount was from Betzina's. I added to the minimum because I am using double sided wool. Thick, so I am glad to hear that I can just cut off some if it is too much. I had not caught that in reading Carr's book.
You are getting that amazing cashmere print? This coat is perfect for a print.

Vicki said...

Looking at the side views, it looks like the side seam is swinging to the front. Maybe that is just an illusion as I am not sure of the pattern seaming. But thought I would mention it just in case. And I agree it does look better without the narrowing of the back.

Liana said...

Ann, I never thought of taping and pulling up the excess that way. I may go ahead and try this, and I can always cut it off and try your way. At least I don't have to choose one or the other right now. I'm glad for any suggestions as I'm not anywhere near an expert in this!

Nancy, I'm going to go look up the Betzina and see what the difference is. I didn't remember that she talked about this.

Vicki, It's a side-back seam, and it is swinging to the front on that side, isn't it? I'm hoping it's because I was standing on really uneven ground. Maybe a little more padding on the right side will help since that's the low shoulder and that's the side that's swinging forward. Isn't it great how everything works together? Maybe not....