Thursday, June 26, 2008
Back to the Jacket
This is my sample for the bands on the sleeves and the pockets for Marfy #1234. I couldn't think what would be the best way to do this and it came to me the other day. The pattern is drafted so that the bands enclose the edge of the fashion fabric. I simply stitched RST on the seamline, flipped it over and folded under the edge. I will handstitch it down on the inside of the real thing. This is just pressed. I think it looks great, although the selvedge edge won't show on the actual jacket. These are the details that I get so excited about when I sew. Watching the fabrics blend and the steam pressing do its magic is just very satisfying. Now if the real thing will only look as good.
I got the notion to order a bunch of sewing books the other day. I was looking for some booklets by Alfred Bach, and found them at Abe Books. As long as I was ordering, I got a bunch of other things. These are used books, and in some cases, the postage for one book is more than the cost of the book, so I looked for other things to order to make it worthwhile. I was lucky enough to find 2 Kenneth King books, including the one that's hard to find, Couture Details. There are several still available, but I have to tell you, I got the one at the best price.
The Bach books are:
Short Cuts to Professional Dressmaking
Short Cuts to Professional Tailoring
Short Cuts to Fitting.
I don't have the fitting book yet, but the other two have impressed me, especially the tailoring book. They were all written before fusibles were available, but there are a lot of things that haven't changed, fusibles or no fusibles. My cashmere coat will not include fusibles either, so this should come in very handy. His list of steps to take when constructing a tailored jacket or coat is really good, in my opinion, as is his explanation of how to "morph" patterns together to get the details you want on the silhouette you want.
If you've never used Abe Books before, they're a nice resource. They're a consortium of used bookstores (maybe some new as well) that have pooled their search functions. They're mostly US, Canadian and UK booksellers. Their prices are generally considerably more reasonable than Amazon, plus it's nice to support small bookstores. NAYY, just a longtime satisfied customer.