Tuesday, August 23, 2005

Beginning Real Wrap Blouse

Monday night I finished the trial (muslin) of the vintage Wrap Blouse I'm drafting. I added the length at the waist, and after adding width to the shoulder, I attached the sleeve, and fiddled with it until deciding that I didn't like the dropped sleeve. So, I took the extra width back off (saving the pieces as add-ons to my block in case a nice, small cut-on cap sleeve is desired) and put in a normal fitted sleeve. Since this is a vintage-design blouse, I left the elbow dart, which I quite like. All this finished about 1 am, so no photos. I also determined that I will need more of my fashion fabric, as I could get it all out of 2 yards except one sleeve. It's all cut single layer, which takes more work in the layout, but less fabric, and it's much easier to mark.

Today I bought more of my fabric, a rayon batik in pale sage and butter, and prewashed it to match the rest. I cut out all the pieces, marked them, and after trials of several interfacings,fused the collar/yoke pieces with the DK/Brooks Bros. interfacing I got from Pam at Sew Exciting sewing supplies. It's fairly stiff, which I think is what I want, as the fabric is very drapey, and I don't want the yoke to collapse. The collar/yoke is ready to attach, and looks good. I stitched all my darts and seams, and am ready to serge the seam allowances as soon as I change thread colors in my serger. I decided to wait until tomorrow rather than rethread at 1 am. I think I will use some of Pam's very lightweight sheer interfacing for the cut-on front facings, just to keep them from stretching out of shape, and for a nice soft fold. She has wonderful interfacings, and such generous yardage. She's adding more essentials every day. I had thought of staytape, but I think this interfacing will be perfect. I can always add a fusible tape if necessary, later.

I don't think I want a shoulder pad, as this should be a very natural shoulder, but I think a small puff/sleeve head a la Roberta Carr would be in order. I haven't done one of hers for a long time, but I always liked them. They just fill out your seam a little, and keep a soft fabric from collapsing. I hope to finish this tomorrow, but I'm not sure how much time I'll actually get to sew.


Ann Rowley said...

Liana, I just want to say how VERY interesting I find all your blogs. This ability to so fluently verbalise what you're doing is quite awe inspiring as my thought processes are quite similar to some of yours.
And I love the details you supply. Out of interest - what's your background? Can't see it mentioned anyhere.
I'm so pleased to have "met" you.

Liana said...

Ann, You're so very kind! My college degree is in vocal performance, so not much application to sewing. I'm really pretty much self-taught although I try to take any classes or workshops I can. Lots and lots of practice over the years has finally begun to pay off, I think. I also read everything I can, and of course Sewing World is a great resource because of generous people like you!