Sunday, July 06, 2014

Techniques - No Fail Binding Method

This method makes 1/2" binding from 2" strips, using 1/2" seam allowances, and allows you to have a nice unobtrusive join in your binding strip without agonizing over the length.  It works every time.

You can see the join in the print binding just to the left of the CenterBack seam.  You may have to enlarge the photo to really see it well.

The binding join seam is more obvious in this photo of a bound neckline with a collar added above.

For 2" binding (1/2" finished width) you mark a point 3 3/4" from the end of the binding, and a point 3" on each side of your desired finishing point on your garment.  Match the marked point on the  binding to the marked point on the garment and stitch, stretching binding as needed, but NOT stretching the garment, until you get to the second marked point on your garment.  Now mark 3 3/4" on the binding from your stopping point and cut your binding there.  Now match the binding to itself, RST, with cut ends at a 90 degree angle, having a square of binding overlapping.  Stitch from point to point lengthwise.  (Pin first to check you have it placed correctly.) Trim allowances on stitched seam.  Then stitch the joined binding to the garment edge.

I usually do this RST and finish with a handstitch on the inside, but you can also stitch in the ditch.  For a very flat finish, don't turn in the last allowance on the inside, leave it flat and trim close after stitching.  This only works for knits or other non-ravelling fabrics, of course.  

These instructions were first seen by me in a book called 19 Shirts from One Pattern that I received as a premium at the State Fair one year.  Its designs are not as dated as the styling might make you think, and the fundamentals are great.  After all, there's only so much you can really do to a Tee without turning it into something else completely.

No comments: